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    #1

    I believe I have an issue

    I was having an off idle stumble problem. I know sometimes you have to bump up the timing, because our cars do not likr the stock setting (10 degrees BTDC). I figure, O.K., and get out the timing light. It seems I've already set it at 14 before, and now have bumped it to 18 before. Just for shits, and giggles, I hooked up ther vacuum gauge. It's showing about 14-15 P.S.I., and the area it's in is saying LATE timing. The gauge is steady, with no fluctuation all. I'm thinking here, at 154,XXX miles, that I may be due for a timing chain, and gears. Before I do though, I figured I'd get some opinions from you guys. As of now, the stumble is all but gone, the car is cranking fine, running well, and no pinging whatsoever.
    Mike
    Tags: None
    #2
    14-15 psi there is a problem. That's pressure, and you should have vacuum, which is in in/hg or similar units.

    There is no reason the car should not run perfect with the 10* timing. Have you run codes? How recent was the last tuneup?

    Yes, at 150K a timing set wouldn't hurt.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

    Comment

      #3
      I meant to say inches, thanks. Tune up 10 months ago. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air, and fuel filters. Everything. Car passed NYS emissions with flying colors. I can tell ya that my fuel mileage has been off. If it makes a difference, I started to get an exaust leak at the right side converter tube, where it meets the side of the converter.

      Mike

      Comment

        #4
        14" also could mean a vacuum leak. It needs to be at least 17 for the speed density to be happy with life.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          Gadg, I should have mentioned that I did in fact, repair a vacuum leak, right at the former blower lockout switch connection. I will check further into that, though, before I start tearing things apart for no reason.
          MIKE

          Comment

            #6
            Do the dampers shift on these engines and allow the timing marks to move? If so that would account in the need for 18 degrees BTDC. I have run into that ALOT on older Mopars.
            1990 LTD Crown Vic w/ dead 5.0
            1984 Pontiac 6000 cammed 2.5L Iron Duke
            1986 F-150 300 6cyl 5spd.
            1994 Crown Vic... Free, bad trans?

            Comment

              #7
              Yes, the dampers can shift. If there are cracks in the rubber, then its a very good possibility.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment

                #8
                Didn't think about that, to tell ya the truth.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by mrltd View Post
                  14-15 psi there is a problem. That's pressure, and you should have vacuum, which is in in/hg or similar units.

                  There is no reason the car should not run perfect with the 10* timing. Have you run codes? How recent was the last tuneup?

                  Yes, at 150K a timing set wouldn't hurt.
                  Slight update. At lunch today, I pulled the distributor cap, and turned the crank by hand. Even at 154,xxx, there is NO play in the timing chain.The bottom of the cap, and the rotor have seen better days, though. I have Blue Streak cap and rotor, with the brass terminals, and I had to clean them up with some emery cloth, as they were in surprisingly sad shape. The car is now idling better, and SOME of the stumble is gone. I'm gonna try to get at a better vacuum source to recheck the reading, and I'll grab the scanner at work, and see what I come up with for codes. And just to show how the car did last year at inspection time, I'm enclosing a pic of the emissions receipt.

                  MIKE
                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Did you rock the crank back and forth, or just turn it forward? Have to rock it otherwise the slack has been taken up, and you won't really be able to tell anything.

                    150k on a double roller is not fatal. If you're in there doing a water pump, I'd stick a chain on it but I wouldn't neccesarily open the motor up just to stick a chain in there either.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Gadg, I rocked it back, and forth, and NO play at all. I did the water pump, and rad 2 yrs ago, so I'm not going in there again, unless I have to.
                      MIKE

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Wouldn't worry about it then. Like I said, I wouldn't open it up to stick a chain in there, but if you have the pump off in the future, I'd consider it. Thats the only reason my Mark got a chain, water pump blew up. 226k on it at the time, and the chain wasn't horrible. There was slack, but nowhere near being a jump risk.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment

                          #13
                          O.K., here's an update. First, it would be a good idea to read my other post in OTB titled "Sometimes, I just don't know", to get an idea as to where this is going. After that mess was taken care of, I decided to go after the vacuum, and timing again. I hooked up the gauge under the top plenum, where the canister purge solenoid hooks up. I'm pulling 19-20 inches of vacuum, so no worries there. Next, I went after the timing. The PO had marked the balancer at 0 degrees (TDC)!!!! I sanded the area, just to make sure, and then marked the 10 BTC mark. I hooked up the light, and lo and behold!! What I thought was 18 BTC, was actually 8 BTC. I bumped the 2 degrees, and replaced the vac line for the solenoid. The line was severly cracked, so might as well while I had it off. I Now have a WAY better idle, and just the slightest of off idle stumble, especially when cold. Now I'm going to check for codes, the lines for the EGR/thermactor switches,the EGR, and the IAC.I will keep you guys posted.
                          MIKE

                          Comment

                            #14
                            O.K., another update. I checked the vacuum lines, and all is good on that front. I also ran the codes, and everything is GONE. The only code I got was code 11, which for the most part just lets you know the system is working. Now mind you, I NEVER erased any of the codes. I just put about 150 miles on the car since the repairs were made, and the computer cleared on it's own. I still want to get in there to clean out the IAC, and the EGR. For the most part, though, she runs like an entirely different car, and I'm pleased with that.
                            MIKE

                            Comment

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