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    cost to get shorty headers installed?

    is it possible to get the headers out reasonably easily or will the motor have to be lifted.
    I will go to a shop to get it done but just looking to see what labour would run me... I have no idea whatsoever so a ballpark idea would be appreciated.

    thanks, andy
    Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
    HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4


    #2
    Huh, I didn't know anyone actually paid to have headers installed. Probably make it a lot easier if you're keeping the stock exhaust, though, as the flanges on the pipes have to be changed out for 2.25" female ball flanges, which is a straightforward but annoying job.

    Labor for actually screwing on the headers should cost the same as a regular exhaust manifold replacement, just 16 easy-to-reach bolts plus unbolting the collector flanges, especially if you bring along a set of standard-length header bolts since half the factory bolts will be too long.

    Watch eBay carefully and you can often get stock '86-'93 Mustang headers for around $20US plus shipping - highly recommended for a stock or very mild engine, as they're very durable, fit great, and provide a nice flow boost over stock exhaust logs.

    Only other thing that comes to mind is that if you have a SEFI car and still use the stock aircleaner, you'll probably want to swap that out for a cone filter before visiting your exhaust guy so he can't give you a hard time about it (the bracket bolts to the d/s exhaust manifold) ... and I suppose if you have the bracket on the A/C that bolts to the manifold, you may want to remove that ahead of time as well.

    Also, I've talked to several exhaust shops that WILL NOT touch "headers", so be clear you just want him to install an original equipment Ford "exhaust manifold" that requires only that one simple mod to the pipes in order to fit.
    Last edited by 1987cp; 04-29-2009, 08:33 AM.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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      #3
      Most of the exhaust shops around me will not install headers, as was mentioned above. The 'manifold' trick might work, but I don't know. I used a torch to heat the manifold bolts in my car (red box), and they came out without a hitch. One on the passenger's side was almost an issue. Some of them come out without any heat. You just have to be aware that breaking the bolts in the head can be a real problem. When I took the manifolds off of the purple box, I didn't use any ehat, and didn't break any bolts.

      Breaking the collector studs/ bolts is not an issue, because you are using new 'manifolds' anyway.

      Installation is a snap. You don't have to 'weave' them around obstacles or anything (unlike the equal lengths on my brother's F250, or the long tubes on the Monte Carlo). Although, with my 351 car, I had to jack up the passenger's side front to snake the header in without scratching it on the control arm.

      Use good bolts and gaskets; I have coated BBKs, and the headers are beautiful, but the supplied gaskets and bolts were junk. I got some Fel-pro gaskets, and ARP 6 pt hex head bolts (not stainless).
      **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
      **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
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        #4
        Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
        The 'manifold' trick might work, but I don't know.
        I can't imagine it wouldn't work if you really are just installing factory Mustang exhaust manifolds. On the other hand, many automotive service personnel aren't even remotely logical, so anything is possible.

        ARP header bolts are very nice, and the 3/8"-headed ones are exceptional for headers with tight bolt-hole clearance (standard header bolts have 7/16" heads), but the bolt holes on factory headers are very large and proper header bolts tend to just pull through. For my factory Mustang headers, I ended up getting regular Grade 8 bolts and matching hardened washers and lockwashers at the hardware store, as there's tons of clearance and you have a straight shot with your socket wrench at each and every bolt head.
        Last edited by 1987cp; 04-29-2009, 09:51 AM.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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          #5
          I learned to soak the manifold bolts with WD-40 or PB Blaster for weeks prior to the installation. When I do have work done on any of the cars/trucks, I clean the engine and suspension so that the mechanics are less pissed about working on an older vehicle. Performance shops will do the header installation, but most repair shops won't do it. They do get a kick out of seeing the work done though.



          Packman

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            #6
            The labor will be a lot, because you have to replace or modify what the headers bolt to... Cause you have 02 sensors....and the o2 sensors are in the manifolds, and headers dont have the provisions for the O2 sensors...
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #7
              wow thats great news, haha. i like "do it youself deals" that you can't screw up to easily. well thanks i'll keep my eye out for some good headers at a good deal with the O2 sensor bung hole.
              I will be getting duals put on at the same time also. but this won't happen till i have the $$ probly August or so... after i pay my $3100 for a years insurance since i'm 17...hmmm
              Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
              HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4

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                #8
                if yu are getting duals then just purchase a mustang h pipe. the bungs are in the h pipe and they will bolt right to the headers. then just get the rest of the exhaust made.
                ~David~

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                Originally posted by ootdega
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                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
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                  #9
                  buy some shorty headers for a ford truck with a 302 if you have the cash, they come with o2 sensor bungs already in them if you get the flowtech ones which are 220$ from summit. you still might need to modify your exhaust since i dont know how far off the flange would be if installing them on a car

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                    #10
                    Oh. You're fuel injected and need oxygen sensors?

                    Originally posted by merc91 View Post
                    but this won't happen till i have the $$ probly August or so... after i pay my $3100 for a years insurance since i'm 17...hmmm
                    :jawdrop: I know that's $CAN, but I don't think I earned much more than that in a year when I was 17! Almost certainly wouldn't have been driving if my State Farm prices had been like that.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by mrltd View Post
                      The labor will be a lot, because you have to replace or modify what the headers bolt to... Cause you have 02 sensors....and the o2 sensors are in the manifolds, and headers dont have the provisions for the O2 sensors...
                      I just used the stock 5.0 Mustang headers, and drilled holes in them and installed the 02 bungs. They're not great, but better than the manifolds.
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                        #12
                        I think i'll go with the mustang H-pipe for my EFI's O2 sensor then when i get it all done.
                        yeah and i have a clean driving record to! every penny goes into the car... got my new rims and tires commin on friday.
                        Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
                        HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4

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                          #13
                          i hear ya on the insurance crap mang. i was payin almost 2500 last year when i had the caddy, but now with the old beatup worthless truck its down to just under 2 grand and ive got a spotless driving record. still sucks though.

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                            #14
                            Holy crap! I only pay 1200 a year and thats for four cars!
                            1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
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                              #15
                              Just for kicks I ought to call my old State Farm agent in Lake Station, Indiana (zoned with Gary for insurance purposes) and see how much it'd cost if I still lived there and were 13 years younger. But now we're getting waaaaaay off topic in what's supposed to be a tech thread!

                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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