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how to remove rear window motor on a 89 LTC

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    how to remove rear window motor on a 89 LTC

    My 2 rear windows recently went out on my towncar so I tore down the door panel and found it is nearly impossible to remove the motor b/c of the rivets in the door and positioning of bolts n' stuff. I know you have a tech article for a 92 but my 89 is different as im sure you guys know. whats the best way to do this?
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    In order to remove them, you will have to drill some holes in the door's inner panel, to access em...
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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      #3
      If you look close at the door, there are dimples right where the motor is. There should be 3 of them. Use a 1/2" drill at the dimples and you can get the socket right on the window motor screws.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #4
        i also will be doing this when my car gets back on the road.

        so when the motor still runs, but the window doesnt go up without me pulling on it what is the cause?

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          #5
          Originally posted by Pimp Hard Or Bust
          so when the motor still runs, but the window doesnt go up without me pulling on it what is the cause?
          probably the bushings. You can open up that part of the motor and replace the little broken pieces with items of your choice. I prefer new bushings


          click
          Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
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            #6
            Window motor rebuild.....

            I use either wooden dowels of the right size... (I can't remember right off... ) But the best thing to do is to replace it with 3 1/4-20 nuts.... they won't go bad, the won't break, and the windows WILL roll up!!! Just don't put your fingers in the window... as the clutch mechanism doesn't work the same anymore.. it will take your fingers OFF!!!
            And I have not had any problem with it wearing out the plastic gears....



            Here is the sequence..

            Take door panel off
            Drill out the three "dimples" in the inner door right in front of where the motor is.... you will see that the dimples are right over the three bolts or rivets....
            Using a socket set remove the motor, unless it has rivets.. then you have to drill them out....
            After you get the motor assembly out... you will see three small screws holding a plate on the gear assembly (You will see the gear sticking out, that goes into the door to make the window go up and down)
            take the three screws out, and take the plate off.... you will probably see pieces of plastic all over inside the housing...
            clean all of the plastic out, and all the grease (if there is any left)
            then put the three new bushings, bolts, what ever you want to use, (like I said, I used some 1/4-20 nuts, but you can get some dowel material and just cut them to the right length, once you get it apart, you can figure out what size dowel to buy.. it should sit in the little corner of the housing snug..., or get the original bushing kit on E-Bay, or the Ford dealer... ) back in the housing.. it is obvious where they go... there is a "triangle" milled out of the housing.. the three bushings will go in the housing, one per "corner" Then HEAVILY grease the WHOLE inside of the housing.. (I filled the last one I did all the way up)
            then put the plate back on with the three screws... then put the whole assembly back in the door... using three bolts instead of trying to rivet it in.... You should be set to go....
            My friend goes one step farther and cleans and sands the contact area of the motor while he does his.. where the brushes contact the center of the motor "windings".... I would check it to see if it goes up and down BEFORE you put the motor back in the door... just to make sure... just plug it in and hit the switches to see if it goes forward and backwards....


            Agent Caitlin Todd… You know Tony, Statistics show that married men live longer…
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            http://www.tomspolicecars.com/

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              #7
              The rollers are also found in the Help! section of a lot of auto parts stores. I think a set of 3 rollers cost me about $2. Just be sure to clean the old grease/chunks of crap out of the gears and re-assemble it with fresh grease. I'd also reccomend some spray white lithium grease to spray on the rest of the moving parts in the mechanism.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Tom,

                GREAT writeup! Also, the entire gear assemblies are sold at advance, where I work...
                1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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