Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Sticking fuel injector(s)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by mrltd View Post
    crimped plastic fuel line? the return line specifically....
    I had that problem before, it was kinked and leaking at the same time.

    also seafoams worked wonders for my fuel system. I've done it multiple times through the pcv and whole bottles in the gas tank mixed with only a couple gallons of gas.
    Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

    Comment


      #17
      i do know that 85 psi is double the spec for what the car is supposed to require. didn't start off there, but i've had to continuously increase the fuel pressure to keep the car running correctly...

      I can check for a clogged fuel return line. no fuel pump noises. fuel filter is less than a year old. Fuel Pressure Regulator is brand new and an adjustable one....

      the interesting part for me is that it runs like crap at low power situations but runs awesome when a lot of power is demanded.

      Pretty sure it's my fuel injectors. We'll know for sure once I get it swapped out...
      1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

      Comment


        #18
        well other thing i can think of is bad o2 sensors or a vacume leak

        Comment


          #19
          Just following up. Replaced all 8 injectors on Sunday with explorer units. As soon as I did the car threw rich codes on both sides of the motor. Dialed the fuel pressure back down to spec and all is well. So, it was the fuel injectors, but I don't know why it was the fuel injectors.

          Couldn't see any debris in the screens up top on them. Only thing i could find was that 3 of the injectors had some small cracks in the plastic tip down by the pintle where the fuel would spray. I'd think cracks would let more fuel in not less, but maybe the cracks were jamming the pintle somehow or causing a poor spray pattern? Looked to be just hairline cracks, but that was the only thing I saw on any of the injectors. If it wasn't the cracks it must have been something internal to the injectors themselves....

          Didn't really make a difference in the way the car runs at all, but now my fuel pressure is correct. I THINK the last item I have left is a bad IAC valve. It's completely dead... You can unplug it and car runs exactly the same. Just need to find the $$ fot it.
          1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

          Comment


            #20
            The pintle cap is to control the spray pattern, but it also holds the sealing O rings. If the O rings weren't sealed up properly in the injector bungs, it would cause nasty vacuum leaks and all sorts of running issues. The screens also seldom plug up, if its gonna be messed up, the plunger inside will stick and the much smaller spray holes at the bottom will be clogged.


            Try cleaning the IAC first. Unless the motor is totally shot, usually its just crap built up in there causing the plunger to stick.

            Also, if you haven't already done so, I'd unhook the battery and allow the ECM to reset itself after the bad injectors and stuff. It might have tried to trim itself to some really wierd parameters to keep the motor running. Resetting it will take you back to stock values and allow the computer to learn to run a motor with good injectors and normal fuel pressure.
            Last edited by gadget73; 03-30-2009, 06:32 PM.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by JD's Toy View Post
              Just following up. Replaced all 8 injectors on Sunday with explorer units. As soon as I did the car threw rich codes on both sides of the motor. Dialed the fuel pressure back down to spec and all is well. So, it was the fuel injectors, but I don't know why it was the fuel injectors.

              Couldn't see any debris in the screens up top on them. Only thing i could find was that 3 of the injectors had some small cracks in the plastic tip down by the pintle where the fuel would spray. I'd think cracks would let more fuel in not less, but maybe the cracks were jamming the pintle somehow or causing a poor spray pattern? Looked to be just hairline cracks, but that was the only thing I saw on any of the injectors. If it wasn't the cracks it must have been something internal to the injectors themselves....

              Didn't really make a difference in the way the car runs at all, but now my fuel pressure is correct. I THINK the last item I have left is a bad IAC valve. It's completely dead... You can unplug it and car runs exactly the same. Just need to find the $$ fot it.
              If it's the same as an Explorer one, I have one I can spare if you want to swing by.
              sigpic
              Current Rides
              67 Cougar XR7
              97 Mountaineer 5.0
              03 Ranger XLT

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                Try cleaning the IAC first. Unless the motor is totally shot, usually its just crap built up in there causing the plunger to stick.

                Also, if you haven't already done so, I'd unhook the battery and allow the ECM to reset itself after the bad injectors and stuff. It might have tried to trim itself to some really wierd parameters to keep the motor running. Resetting it will take you back to stock values and allow the computer to learn to run a motor with good injectors and normal fuel pressure.
                Good info Gadget, and thank you! I've pulled the IAC off and attempted to clean it without luck. I think the motor is just 100% dead. Computer is reset and she's running like a champ right now! Maybe I can finally save up some money for some of the other things needed around the house.
                1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by 87LongroofCP View Post
                  If it's the same as an Explorer one, I have one I can spare if you want to swing by.
                  I appreciate the offer, but looks like the IAC valves are different... Alas.
                  1986 Ford Contry Squire: HO engine swap, 3G alternator, 3.73 gears, rear air springs, Class III 8000 lb hitch... potential tow rig for my Blazer trail toy??

                  Comment

                  Working...