i meant Mustang H pipes in general, though some specifically fit worse than others. They sit crooked, one flange lower than the other, almost like the motor is rotated relative to the car. They fit, but its just not tailor-made for these vehicles.
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86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I'm beginning to think the Mustang H-pipe is the reason for my driver side muffler failure. There are no impact or scrapes on the failed muff. The impacts at the H-pipe-to-midpipe joint (lowest point; only 2
" off of the ground) may have twisted or stressed the inlet pipe until it broke internally. Another project for another day. I tried to get a Dynomax Hemi Super Turbo from Summit Racing, but they said that they just had the Super Turbo. I hope the Super Turbo muffs are as quiet as the Summit turbo muffs. Regardless, I will probably have to stick glasspacks on the tailpipes for the 351W anyways.
Packman
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it should be a lot more than 2" off the ground. Mine is. What I've found in the past that helps to get exhaust tucked up is to stick a floor jack under it with all the connections loose, shove the pipes up where you want them, then make it tight. If your exhaust is literally 2" off the ground, its no wonder things broke.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I've been saying for the longest time that at least my Mustang H-pipe tends to point downwards, the low point being the joint at the midpipe. Then it goes up. If I had been thinking a little and not hell bent on getting the duals up so quickly, I would have had somebody bend the H-pipe upwards a little; if that's possible. Or just had somebody bend and fab an H-pipe. Oh well, next lifetime. I gotta get reaquainted with -AN stuff again. I played around with it last year by making a fuel line from the mech. fuel pump to the carb for Putter Project. It looks cool, but I don't think my joints are being tested by only 5-7 psi. I will start doing that again soon, as I still have the tools and some line left.
Packman
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Bend the H-pipe upward? I wonder if that would work ... make my stuff fit a bit better too (no idea what the Skippyville crew's secret is for getting crossovers tucked up nicely like they claim to do).
What are you doing with AN lines? I have a tremendous affection for plain ol' inverted flare myself, though I've admittedly substituted a piece of rubber for the aluminum pressure line that kept leaking on me ...2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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My technique has been a jack on the crossover of the h-pipe and jacking it up as high as I dare and then tightening it all up. It hits on the tranny crossmember. This is a 2.5 BBK catted h-pipe behind 351 shorty swap headers. I've gotta try what a couple people have suggested in making a hanger coming from the tranny crossmember. Not to mention putting tailpipes on... and a bajillion other little things on this car...
I've considered jacking it up at the crossover pipe hard enough to bend the piping around the tranny crossmember (so that there'd be a curve upwards there), but I have no idea if a weld somewhere (headers?) might crack or something.
It ends up satisfactory for a bit, but it keeps sagging more and more. 2 weeks ago my exhaust was seemingly leak free, but now I'd have to say the car is to the point of sounding quite bad because of the leak that starts at the joint at the rear of the H-pipe as it sags and the angles change.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Originally posted by 1987cp View PostBend the H-pipe upward? I wonder if that would work ... make my stuff fit a bit better too (no idea what the Skippyville crew's secret is for getting crossovers tucked up nicely like they claim to do).
What are you doing with AN lines? I have a tremendous affection for plain ol' inverted flare myself, though I've admittedly substituted a piece of rubber for the aluminum pressure line that kept leaking on me ...
Hopefully that will work with the exhaust. As far as the -AN lines; I will use -AN from the gas tank to the fuel filter (around the stock location). I figure 3/8" hard line should be enough for what I have planned; and that I will run from the filter down the frame and into the engine compartment, where I will use -AN again to make all of the connections. Return line will be the same.
Packman
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how badly would it mess up the pinion angle and such if I were to shim the tranny crossmember up 1/4 inch or half inch? that would allow me to get the h-pipe straighter.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Couple questions. I know I posted this in the OTB section, but I will ask it here again. Is the spider bar for the roller lifters in the F4TE 5.8L the same as the spider bar used in the '85-newer 5.0L engines? This is a general question that I know will have varied opinions, but I would like to get different viewpoints. I know H-beam rods are stronger than the stock I-beam rods. Is it feasible to run H-beams for the street (a little spirited driving on the weekends and some track runs once or twice a month)?
Packman
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lifter spider is the same
H beam rods would be grossly overkill for what you're talking about doing. Stockers will fit the bill just fine.
An A9P will work just fine no matter what motor you run with it, just tune it appropriately.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I got my Thunderbolt hood scoop yesterday. So I went out last night and took some measurements and laid it on the hood where the intake sits. This hood scoop will barely fit the stock intake (if it sat 3" higher). I might end up buying the intake that I plan on running with the 351W ahead of time (probably gonna go up in price by next year anyways) to see how it will sit. I am thinking that it will sit higher than stock, but be a bit more narrow due to the shorter runners. It might fit better.
Packman
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