EGR eliminator? (searched already)

[fordktpjoe]

OK I searched this, but couldn't come up with anything that was exactly what I am looking for.

1990, 5.0, lopo, no mods.

I keep getting a CEL. It only comes on for a couple seconds, just long enough to catch your eye, then it goes right back off. It'll do it several times on a long trip, but not at any sort of regular interval, so I haven't been able to determine whether it's while I am accelerating, or decelerating, or just cruising, or what.

the code keeps showing as a 33, which is EGR not opening.

I have taken it off, and cleaned it a few times, and cleared the codes by removing the battery.

I found over at rjminjectiontech an EGR eliminator kit that consists of an EGR block off plate, and a plug that goes into the harness on the car that has been wired with resistors that "fools" the computer into thinking the EGR is closed all the time.

But wouldn't this make the car throw a code all the time, since it would STILL think the EGR wasn't opening?

The kit is cheaper than the $100 plus for a new EGR valve.

Feel free to yell at me. I'd really like to know the truth here.

[Southern_Pride]

EGR is really only needed for emissions bs. Just take the vaccuum hose off.

[88grandmarq]

EGR valve opening is vaccum controled via the EVR solenoid.

get a vaccum hand pump to test the EGR valve. make sure its holding vaccum when you apply it. you should see the diaphram and the plunger move as it opens and closes.
also, there is an o-ring between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve. some people damage or lose the o-ring when they seperate the sensor from valve.

ensure you have a good vacuum supply (no leaks) from the back of the intake manifold to the EVR soleniod, then from the solenoid to the EGR valve.
Its common for the EVR solenoid to fail, they are bout $30 at the Ford dealer parts dept.

[1987cp]

EGR is really only needed for emissions bs. Just take the vaccuum hose off.

Well, it's also said to improve fuel economy and permit more ignition advance at idle.

[gadget73]

Code 33 isn't supposed to set a CEL. Other EGR codes will do that though. The eliminator thing sets a permanant 33, which disables EGR function.

I had random blinky lights on my Mark VII, turns out it was a leaky valve like 88grandmarq suggested. Stuck my spare on, no more lights.

[Southern_Pride]

I dunno if it improves economy or not. My is junk on my 91 and I unplugged it. Runs fine and I average 23 on the highway with it.

[fordktpjoe]

I dunno if it improves economy or not. My is junk on my 91 and I unplugged it. Runs fine and I average 23 on the highway with it.

Do you get a CEL? you just have vacuum line unplugged?

I get a "23" too, but that's for another thread. (TPS)

[88grandmarq]

If you're getting code 23, thats most likely the source of the CEL. fix that first.

[Southern_Pride]

No CEL. I just pulled the vacuum line off. Ive never pulled the codes on it because it runs fine and I don't see the point in it. But even when it ran rough it wouldn't put the CEL on it but then again nothing had really "failed" electronically.

[fordktpjoe]

If you're getting code 23, thats most likely the source of the CEL. fix that first.

Yeah, TPS outta range...anyone know what the "range" is supposed to be so I can adjust it? or is it just a R & R? I did look, and it does have slotted holes on it.

[Tiggie]

TPS supposed to be .98-.99 volts, key on engine off, no throttle input. Computer can compensate from anywhere from 0.7 to 1.2 volts. That's with the positive from the multimeter to the TPS green wire.

[gadget73]

What he said. If its out of range, its probably shot. The tps isn't really adjustable, and the actual value is not that important as long as its in the .7-1.2 range. Typical is somewhere around .9-1.0. Don't worry about getting any certain value, it changes with temperature and battery voltage.