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Crappy Running, and Vacuum Lines

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    Crappy Running, and Vacuum Lines

    -Since I am off from school and bored, I decided to play with the burnout car a little today. It has been running like crap for quite some time now, and is virtually un-drivable. It will not idle worth a shit.

    -I bought a whole bunch of tune up parts (the usual stuff), and I am also going to change the horrendously leaky VC gaskets. After I pulled the upper intake off, I can't seem to figure out where one vacuum line went. Under the manifold, one line runs to some emissions BS on the PS front corner of the car. Where does the red striped vacuum line directly behind that line (under the manifold), go?

    -Also, since I know little about EFI stuff, what might be causing my shitty run condition? The plugs are totally black, if that helps at all. The EGR valve may be fucked up, but will that make the engine run like crap? I believe it is stuck closed.

    -Should I just buy new oxygen sensors, an IAC, TPS, MAP and EGR valve?

    -Could a vacuum leak be causing this issue, or is it a more tell tale sign of something else. It is extremely choppy, and will not stay running for long when you let your foot off the gas. Also, the charging system on the car does not work at all. Could low voltage be the issue (I always have a good charged battery, and have never had this running problem in the past)? I am going to do a 3G conversion when I can get a JY alternator.

    -Finally, I am going to put Mustang HO factory headers on the car, with stubby down pipes (maybe up to under the front door), so that I can put the oxygen sensors in them. Nothing after that. Is this going to cause a run problem? I am not concerned about performance, just noise, and I want it to run right...


    Any insight would be cool. Thanks folks.
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

    #2
    if i remember correctly, red is fuel related. the small one has to go from vac tree to fuel pressure regulator...im having a bran fart...where does the long one go shit...

    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

    Comment


      #3
      sounds like the FPR line. The only really needed vacuum lines are the FPR and the MAP sensor.

      if it's running that rich, check the vaccum to the MAP sensor and the sensor itself, and the connector.

      the o2 sensor stuff should be fine.
      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

      Comment


        #4
        red line goes to fpr.. green goes to egr solenoid.

        the big fat rubber line in the back goes to map.. the one in the front goes to the charcoal canistor.
        Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

        Comment


          #5
          Where do I need to hook the green for the EGR valve? I wrecked that line a while ago.

          Also, I have three lines underneath. There is a metal s bend at the back of the upper intake that goes to the firewall (MAP?); this is the biggest line. There is one right under the middle of the upper that goes to the canister, and there is one that connects right behind the canister line, which is the one I don't know about.

          Would it be ok to remove the EGR valve and just block it off? Emissions is not a concern.
          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

          Comment


            #6
            that biggest line goes to the vaccum tree-or the booster. The map line isn't that big. The map and FPR both get direct feeds from the intake. The EGR gets fed from the solenoids on the fender/intake, if it isn't functional anyway, don't plug it in.
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by mrltd View Post
              that biggest line goes to the vaccum tree-or the booster. The map line isn't that big. The map and FPR both get direct feeds from the intake. The EGR gets fed from the solenoids on the fender/intake, if it isn't functional anyway, don't plug it in.
              Sounds to me like the MAP line is the one that I can not identify. Not sure if it was even hooked up. Its certainly pretty crusty. I am going to change any lines that are crappy.
              **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
              **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
              **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
              **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
                Also, I have three lines underneath. There is a metal s bend at the back of the upper intake that goes to the firewall (MAP?); this is the biggest line. There is one right under the middle of the upper that goes to the canister, and there is one that connects right behind the canister line, which is the one I don't know about.

                Would it be ok to remove the EGR valve and just block it off? Emissions is not a concern.
                I am not sure what happens when you disconnect the EGR. I'll have to try that myself. The MAP is the small box with two lines coming out from underneath it right behind the upper manifold on the firewall (it would be more towards the passenger side). Is your car running rough with the black smoke and all? If your plugs are fouled then that may be the case. Check the condition of the rubber line going to the MAP. Also, you might want to check the IAC; it's on the right hand side of the throttle body. They get fouled up with oil too because they share the same port as the EGR. When you remove the IAC, blast it with carb cleaner and reinstall. That made all of the difference in my mom's CV. I'll post more when I get back home.



                Packman

                Comment


                  #9
                  If the EGR has no vacuum, the ECM disables it. Not a big deal. If you don't drive this around, its not going to matter one way or the other if the EGR is hooked up, since it basically only operates under normal driving conditions. Idle and WOT its closed.

                  The black plugs and generally shitty running sounds like a vacuum leak. If its the line to the MAP, that will definitely explain it.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I finally found the time to put the purple box back together this afternoon. Twas quick and easy, and the results are swell. I replaced all of the pertinent vacuum lines, and also hooked up the MAP sensor... the old line must have gotten so decrepit that it fell off.

                    It started on the first try and idled nice and smooth.

                    Changed the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires, and the stumble it once had seems to be gone. I also cracked all the exhaust manifold bolts free while I was doing the plugs. I took it out for a spin on the iced over driveway, and blew a few donuts... everything is swell. The only thing is, the car really locks the brakes up with ease, which is not cool on ice...

                    Thanks for all the help folks, she runs great!
                    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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