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    Electical Gremlin

    Now that its getting cold, this new prob is worrying me. I converted to a 3g alternator. I have a 175amp fuse right at the pos. battery terminal coming from the back of the alternator. I have 2 gauge wire going to the starter, the ground and from the solenoid to the positive post to the battery. Now the charge cable from the alternator is a 4 gauge wire. None of the connections are loose, I've triple checked. I've had the alternator checked 3 times previously. Alternator: Duralast Battery: Duralast. All cables, Duralast.
    Problem: when the car is put in gear the lights get dimmer. When I accelerate the lights get brighter. When the radio's thumpin, all the lights dim when the bass hits. I don't know where to start and I've searched here and nothing. I know I did something retarded, but a retard wouldn't know what, if you get my drift :err:
    Last edited by vicLover; 12-06-2008, 07:19 PM.
    1985 Ford LTD Crown Victoria-4 Door-Burgundy on Burgundy-Rust bucket.
    Mods: LOPO Block CFI to carb convo (Edelbrock 1404),fuel lines tweaked and regulated to accept with stock fuel pump, 2.5'' BBK Shorty Headers, Mallory HEI Distributor, Electric Fan, 3g upgraded, skip the AC and smog

    #2
    Originally posted by vicLover View Post
    Now that its getting cold, this new prob is worrying me. I converted to a 3g alternator. I have a 175amp fuse right at the pos. battery terminal coming from the back of the alternator. I have 2 gauge wire going to the starter, the ground and from the solenoid to the positive post to the battery. Now the charge cable from the alternator is a 4 gauge wire. None of the connections are loose, I've triple checked. I've had the alternator checked 3 times previously. Alternator: Duralast Battery: Duralast. All cables, Duralast.
    Problem: when the car is put in gear the lights get dimmer. When I accelerate the lights get brighter. When the radio's thumpin, all the lights dim when the bass hits. I don't know where to start and I've searched here and nothing. I know I did something retarded, but a retard wouldn't know what, if you get my drift :err:
    Sounds like me with my regular alternator. What size is the pulley, is it a bigger diameter than the original? It's possible that it's no spinning fast enough to put out the right volts at idle. But you shouldn't get a dimming, unless you have like every other thing that draws current on, and you're at a stop, then yes. But the idle voltage being better is one of the reasons why people go to the 3G alternator.

    Comment


      #3
      Depending how much load is on the electrical system, that might be perfectly normal. I would suggest upgrading the ground cable from the engine to the body if you haven't already.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        does it do it without the stereo hooked up?? do you currently use a cap? what size stereo are we talking??
        Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

        Comment


          #5
          By better ground cable, do you mean a new one, cause a 2 gauge is the biggest (I thought) there is? My stereo is an aftermarket Pioneer (there $150ish model), Pioneer 6x9's, 4x2's up front and no amp. I did get a pretty big (~20 inches or so) electric fan out of a 2000 looking model Grand Marq, from the junk yard. Looked like a loaded edition, forgot to get a vin number or anything. Now the ground for the fan I'm running straight to the ground post at the battery. I also have a Hayden 16 inch fan in front of the radiator blowing back towards the engine, also grounded at the battery. At idle I am getting 14.5 or so volts and thats with both fans on, blower on high, stereo at moderate volume, no defrost though, so I know its charging. Its just annoying when I go from Park to Drive the lights get noticeably dimmer (without the stereo on), they flicker with bass notes, and they get brighter and sustain brightness when I give it the gas. Don't seem like thats normal to me with a 3G alt.
          Last edited by vicLover; 12-06-2008, 10:28 PM.
          1985 Ford LTD Crown Victoria-4 Door-Burgundy on Burgundy-Rust bucket.
          Mods: LOPO Block CFI to carb convo (Edelbrock 1404),fuel lines tweaked and regulated to accept with stock fuel pump, 2.5'' BBK Shorty Headers, Mallory HEI Distributor, Electric Fan, 3g upgraded, skip the AC and smog

          Comment


            #6
            seems like you got a kick ass load on that G3 with BOTH fans and such it might be normal i agree with gadget about the new ground cable and cleaning all connections it makes, really well to start with
            My old 87 Mercury Grand Marquis-RIP- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3016650
            Now Driving A
            1999 Mercury Mountaineer with the 5.0 V8 its also AWD..... Atleast I'm keeping it in the Mercury family right?

            Comment


              #7
              I'd have to agree with what others are suggesting. Many do "the big three" upgrade along with the 3G upgrade.

              Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. (the12volt.com).http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1
              sigpic
              1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
              Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by vicLover View Post
                By better ground cable, do you mean a new one, cause a 2 gauge is the biggest (I thought) there is? .
                Originally posted by 86GmLsCoupe View Post
                I'd have to agree with what others are suggesting. Many do "the big three" upgrade along with the 3G upgrade.

                Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. (the12volt.com).http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1

                What he said. The battery to engine ground at 2 ga is fine, but there is a dinky little 8 or 10 ga wire at the back of the motor that needs to be upgraded too. The electrical path for the ground is basically battery > engine > car. If the cable from the engine to the body is in bad shape, it will cause low voltage inside no matter how much alternator you have under the hood. Some cars (mine for example) had no battery to body connection, so you're entirely reliant on the engine to body connection.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  My suggestion? Remove the aftermarket amplifier. That'll free up lots more juice for the more necessary functions.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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