Worked on the car again today. It did it's little rev thing when I started it up as usual, no change.
Drove car for twenty minutes to get it nice and hot. Came back and pulled codes:
KOEO: Code 34
KOER: Code 94, 44, 34
Always got a code 98 before on the KOER test, so I was surprised it actually ran the test this time. The 34 is still the EGR, which I don't think is contributing to the problem. I have a spare EGR valve and sensor at the house I may try to see if the code disappears. The 44 and 94 are the same codes according to my service manual, dealing with the pollution controls (which are gone). I'm not really worried about them, but if anyone knows how to make them disappear without the smog equipment in place, that'd be nice.
Both the ECT and intake air temperature sensor were right on the money as far as testing correctly. Maybe the connector wasn't quite on the ECT or something when I got that code in the past. Or maybe the wiggling of the wires helped it out. Who knows, but the code is gone now.
The S&P connectors looked remarkably good.
Will an IAC off an '88 5.0 Turdbird work on my car? I have one of those at home now that I think about it. If it will work, I'll try it and eliminate the IAC as the cause of the revving.
Car ran like a champ today. Almost got a ticket for 80 in a 45!
Drove car for twenty minutes to get it nice and hot. Came back and pulled codes:
KOEO: Code 34
KOER: Code 94, 44, 34
Always got a code 98 before on the KOER test, so I was surprised it actually ran the test this time. The 34 is still the EGR, which I don't think is contributing to the problem. I have a spare EGR valve and sensor at the house I may try to see if the code disappears. The 44 and 94 are the same codes according to my service manual, dealing with the pollution controls (which are gone). I'm not really worried about them, but if anyone knows how to make them disappear without the smog equipment in place, that'd be nice.
Both the ECT and intake air temperature sensor were right on the money as far as testing correctly. Maybe the connector wasn't quite on the ECT or something when I got that code in the past. Or maybe the wiggling of the wires helped it out. Who knows, but the code is gone now.
The S&P connectors looked remarkably good.
Will an IAC off an '88 5.0 Turdbird work on my car? I have one of those at home now that I think about it. If it will work, I'll try it and eliminate the IAC as the cause of the revving.
Car ran like a champ today. Almost got a ticket for 80 in a 45!
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