alright, tomorrow is supposed to be fairly bright and sunny for a change. and if i can find my jacks and such i'll start yanking chrsitines tranny. any useful tips or shortcuts? what size wrench do i need for the cooler lines? and should the car be on ramps or floor jacks?
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Save a seal, club a liberal. -
ok heres a few hints paul
pick up a 16mm swivel socket and a 2 ft extension if u have one
16mm is the bellhousing bolts, there are six of them
ok theres 4 torque convertor nuts........i believe they are 14 or 15mm
take the starter out and lay it aside......the two bolts are 1/2"
there are a few bolts on the inspection cover take those out
the friveshaft bolts are 12mm 12 point......if they were never out, they will be a biotch
take the trans crossmember out.......jack with a board unser the pan now
the crossmember can just be slid back
unplug the speed sensor and the shift linkage and the backup light switch
but some wood between the engines oil pan and the crossmember to keep the motor in place
the cooler lines are 16mm i believe
good luck and enjoy
scott
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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scott, you da man :thumbsup:
i'll let everybody know how it goesSave a seal, club a liberal.Comment
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you got the sizes wrong methinks...
trans housing bolts should be 5/8"
flywheel nuts are 9/16"
LTD is still here
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and the most important one of all: unless you have some serious lift on the car for the swap, the tranny adapters for the floor jacks are useless
RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro
'80 Town Coupé
'84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
'16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4Comment
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i was just gonna use a block o wood :coocoo:Save a seal, club a liberal.Comment
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Oh yeah, feel free to comment, you fuckin monkey turd.Originally posted by 1987LTDmastayou got the sizes wrong methinks...
trans housing bolts should be 5/8"
flywheel nuts are 9/16"
1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!
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i use my metric swivel sockets.......16mm fits perfect.......wtf do i gotta go buy a std set of impact swivels for :guns:
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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I can personally guarantee that Scott's (and Eric's) tools work perfectly for tranny swaps
RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro
'80 Town Coupé
'84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
'16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4Comment
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its fucking raining again. and the last time i was underr a car in the rain i got sick for 3 weeks :cuss:Save a seal, club a liberal.Comment
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I used standard sizes on mine cuz thats what I had. I think the lines used an 11/16, or if you have one, a "quick" disconnect tool which is sure to take you far more time than the normal way. One other thing, unless you have some serious lift, you're gonna need to get out from under the car once the tranny is down and yank the dipstick tube. It just pulls out. Unless the trans is shit, you'll want to clean that area off and plug the hole with something to keep the dirt out. If its shot, well who cares? LOL86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Use a 12 pt 12mm combo wrench and use another wrench for leverage.Originally posted by lincolnmania
Before you unbolt the tranny from the motor, let the tailhousing drop down with the crossmember out and drain your fluid. Insert your driveshaft back into the tranny and leave the driveshaft in the end of the tranny until it is on the ground so that any free fluid does not make a mess. As was mentioned, remove your dipstick tube and plug the hole first when unbolting from the engine.
Once you remove the nuts from your converter, push the converter in a bit so that it does not hang on your flexplate. It will only go in a small amount, but it will help.Comment
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i ogtta work tomorrow all day but monday i have off. assuming its fairly clear out, and not sweltering hot i'm gonna pull it. if theres a new thread called "Shifty Shifts!", i got the tranny in
Save a seal, club a liberal.Comment
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is it possible to drop the tranny, and then remove the driveshaft or wuill that fuck things up. christine sank in the mud a bit and the only spot where i can safely jack the car up is in front now. theres no other room for a car that big in my yardSave a seal, club a liberal.Comment
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Nope, you can't remove the tranny with the driveshaft in. You have to pull the tranny away from the motor as you go down, and the driveshaft stops you from moving back. I had a cement floor to work on, but here is a trick to getting the tranny out from under the car. Use a 12"x12" piece of plywood, and old bed sheet (throw away kind). When you drop the tranny, lay the sheet under everything, and lay the plywood so that when you drop the tranny the pan lands on the plywood. Then get out from under the car and use the sheet to pull it out. Saves a lot of grunting under the car. If you have a full sheet of plywood, you could lay that down under the car to work on.
Drain all the fluid out before you drop it. (Note: You can't really drain ALL the fluid just most of it. So after your done draining anf it doesn't drip any more, don't think that it is empty. It has plenty more throughout the system that can't drain while it's level and not running.) To drain torque converter, on the front of the tranny is a little shield, take it off and you'll see the flywheel. Turn the engine till you see a smaller bolt that goes to the torque converter. Take it out to drain the fluid in it.
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