i got a holley FPR with a return. i have all that set up with a gauge so i only give it 6psi.
now do you mean like a tach signal or some other wire?
now do you mean like a tach signal or some other wire?
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WTF is with you and the tach signal wire? Read his entire fucking post before replying please.91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.Originally posted by gadget73
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13Comment
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well seeing how most things in a car base what they do off of engine rpms i figure the pump would be hte same. ignition signal could be hte same as a tach signal.
i also wrote this before he edited his post so dont do jumping on me when you dont know what happened. im not a master at wiring so i figure id ask peopel that do know what there doing so i dont screw things up more then i might have.
instead of coming in here and flaming me try keeping shut and know whats going on, DAMN
anyways what do you mean by cruise ball and im guessing you mean a switched 12v source when you say ignition signal?Last edited by import convert; 09-16-2008, 12:59 AM.Comment
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Yes a switched source, as in it will only come on when you put the key in the run position. If you find one that only comes on when you turn the key no matter what position, you'll have the fuel pump running whenever you have the key turned to run or accessory.Originally posted by import convert View Post
I think it would be cool and it would work better to run the fuel pump off a switch from inside the car. Kinda like what crazyenginebuilder has in his Vic.
With the fuel pump on a relay switched on by the key, wouldn't it always be on????Comment
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listen here!!
take the fuel tank down and remove the electric fuel pump
extend the pickup to where the botton of the electric pump was
reinstall the fuel tank
install a low pressure inline electric pump or a mechanical fuel pump
check your timing
vroom vroom......there is way too much pressure there from the efi pump to regulate down to 6 psi......and is the return line hooked up?
do these steps or go back to efi or you will never get it running!
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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yes i have a "T" style regulator using the stock fuel lines. i have thought about droping the tank down and hooking an inline pump and pulling out the FI pump.
well see what happens i can try putting it on a switch and if it dont work the i can drop the tank.Comment
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PIP = profile ignition pickup, its the signal right off the pickup in the distributor. The tach terminal on an HEI is output to a tachometer, nothing else.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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here's what we did. find 12v switched sorce and plug in to the connector that says bat. on the HEI distibutor, done. now i don't know if the wire colors are the same on a 90 compaired to an 85, but after i removed the wiring harness and computer i found another 12v switched sorce and pluged it in to the big yellow wire on the fuel pump relay plug, so now when i turn the key to run the fuel pump kicks on (and i'm using factory pump). and for the fuel lines i ran the main line straight to the carb. and tee'd off to the ruturn line, so what the carb. doesn't use is being returned to the tank. as of yet the carb. hasn't flooded nor does it run lean. (based off the dyno run).
hope it helps, just my 2 cents---1990 Lincon LSC., 5.0 H.O., 55,000 ORIG. miles, 3:73 Posi, Bullit rims, 3G alt., 2.5" full-back exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, Flowmaster mufflers. My DD
---1985 Grand Marquis 2-door., Fresh 5.0, slick-top, GT40P's, 1.7 RR's, FRPP headers, 3G alt., Weiand Stealth intake, 650 cfm holley, 2.5" side-exit exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, 3:55 Posi, Bucket seats, custom center console. My Toy
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ok. that helps a lot. now did you just splice the 12v source into the wire or did you actually cut the wire and run it directly to the switched 12v source?Comment
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Did you use the stock CFI Electric Pump? Don't the EFI pumps put out more PSI than the CFI ones?Originally posted by Bowman85merc View PostComment
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yes, i'm using stock cfi fuel pump, that's why i tee'd off the main line to the return line. what the carb. don't want is sent back through the return line.
if you look at the pic right behind the dist. and behind the inlet hose you'll see were i have it tee'd in. don't pay attention to the main hose, i haven't shortend it yetAttached Files---1990 Lincon LSC., 5.0 H.O., 55,000 ORIG. miles, 3:73 Posi, Bullit rims, 3G alt., 2.5" full-back exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, Flowmaster mufflers. My DD
---1985 Grand Marquis 2-door., Fresh 5.0, slick-top, GT40P's, 1.7 RR's, FRPP headers, 3G alt., Weiand Stealth intake, 650 cfm holley, 2.5" side-exit exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, 3:55 Posi, Bucket seats, custom center console. My ToyComment
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well i did what bowman did and put it on a switch and my car started. but of course i had no gas in the tank so it died and i had to go get more gas. hahaha. my problem now is i think i had hte pressure too highor the distributer was off cuase i didnt get to time the thing and i might of fouled the plugs with too much gas. tomorrow ill get new plugs and see how it does.
i got the fuel pressure at 5psi right now. i just need to get it to run and see how it drives.Comment
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so an old-timer came into work today and told me that ill need a heat riser for the winter or my car wont start on cold days. or at least itll have trouble starting, so im asking all you guys with carbs if you think ill need one? im kinda thinking i will but i want to get your opinions.Comment
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So far, I don't know of any of us with open-element air cleaners that have winter starting trouble. A heat riser may help the engine warm up a bit quicker. May also depend somewhat on your individual carb; hafta wait and see what the Holley guys say. But yeah, my experience is that if the choke and idle mixture settings are appropriate for the cold temps, pump-pump and it starts right up.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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i ran a holley 4160 badly adjusted on my 350 in my old c10, pump pump vroom
had to let it sit for a bit to warm up, but that was it. then i finally put a manual choke on and that helped the warm up
convert, your best bet is a complete revamp of the whole system as follows:
unplug the efi harness like gadget said
remove the efi pump and lengthen the pickup like linconlmania said, and get a mechanical fuel pump (i think you need a different timing cover to accomodate, not a big deal)
the pump will only pump when the motor is spinning (cranking or running), no electrics involved.
i see you got the dizzy wired to a switched source, so i wont comment on that.
follow those few basic steps and BAM its a carb carComment
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