Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

carb swap/ wont start?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    well i spent like 100 bucks for a new pump a few months ago and i wanted to keep it. i ccould probably just hook hte pump to a toggle switch if i wanted. right now i need to figure out why imnot getting power to any part of my car. i guess it wouldve been easier to just run an older timign cover and a mechanical pump though

    Comment


      #17
      Well, if your electric fuel pump is running, you ARE getting power to SOMETHING, and there's probably no need to change it to manual control. And if the fuel pressure is regulated appropriately with a ~6psi return-style regulator, the EFI pump is fine for now, so quit worrying about it for the time being. However, it's definitely time to get a LOT more specific about what is and isn't getting power. Whatever isn't getting power, find how it gets its power and start tracing the wires until you find the problem.
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

      Comment


        #18
        absolutely nothign is getting power right now. like the car acts like theres no battery in it. when i first did anythign to it everythign worked. then it all shut off all of a sudden. then like 2 hours later it all worked agin and i tried to crank the car over and then it all shit off again like there was no battery in the car. so now i need to try and find out why nothing is getting power. then i can pull out all the wires and stuff that i dont need.

        Comment


          #19
          do not cut wires. the efi harness comes out in one piece. no need to cut or do anything else.


          and that stock fuel pump will not run without a stock distributor, so you're not going to get it running.

          any special reason you're putting a carb on this? i think everyone here knows my opinion on them so i won't really bother beating that horse anymore, but i'm just curious what the reason is.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #20
            do not cut wires. the efi harness comes out in one piece. no need to cut or do anything else.


            and that stock fuel pump will not run without a stock distributor, so you're not going to get it running.

            any special reason you're putting a carb on this? i think everyone here knows my opinion on them so i won't really bother beating that horse anymore, but i'm just curious what the reason is.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #21
              well, it was more to do something different. i always wanted to see what it was like to have a carbed car and i wanted to see what it would take to do hte swap.

              i was getting fuel to the fpr though. i dont know if it would be a steady amount though

              Comment


                #22
                so today i was thinking bout the whole thing and i decided id either run the green wire that went to the origional distributer to the tach output on the proform distributer and see what happens.

                if that doenst work then id just buy an inline pump and hook that up. either way once i get power going back to the car and can tr and get this thing running

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by import convert View Post
                  absolutely nothign is getting power right now. like the car acts like theres no battery in it. when i first did anythign to it everythign worked. then it all shut off all of a sudden. then like 2 hours later it all worked agin and i tried to crank the car over and then it all shit off again like there was no battery in the car. so now i need to try and find out why nothing is getting power. then i can pull out all the wires and stuff that i dont need.
                  As Thain mentioned before, these symptoms are a textbook case of bad battery connections. I can't tell you how many times I've experienced this exact thing where everything shuts off as soon as you turn the key. Have you cleaned all the battery and starter connections? If not, do that first and then we can sort out the rest of the details of your electrical system. From what you say, it sounds like you should be able to get it running as it sits as long as you've got good connections at the battery, so take care of that before you worry about the other stuff.

                  2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
                  1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
                  But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

                  Comment


                    #24
                    today checked my car to see if it had power and it did. i tried to start my car and it tried to crank over but the starter gear wouldnt engage the flexplate. tomorrow im gonna tighten the starter bolts and try to fix some fuel leaks on my FPR. i hope it all works. and yes i am getting fuel to the motor but i need to get it around 6psi an not have any leaks.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Was the starter just going zing! or was it making horrible awful grinding death noises? The former is symptomatic of a bad starter; the latter often indicates a loose or out of place starter.

                      2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
                      1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
                      But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

                      Comment


                        #26
                        it was doing the grinding noise

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I just would like to add that if the starter bolts are loose it might not hurt to put a dab of lock tight blue on them bolts close to the head before you tighten them all the way up. Nothin more fun then striping a starter out 50 miles from home...
                          People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            +1 on that. stupid dinky ass starter bolts that come loose.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #29
                              well i changed the wiring of the distributer to make sure its getting power and i changed the fender solenoid and made sure all the wires going to the negative post on the battery was right. what i found out was that the motor would crank but i think th eonly fuel it was getting was form the prime charge. what i want to do is hook the tach signal and the 12v start wires that go to the origional distributer and hooke them to the tach output on the proform distributer i have. maybe itll give me constaant fuel pressure.

                              if not ill either run an inline carb pump or ill try and wire hte FI pump to a toggle switch and run that.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                told you the fuel pump won't run without signal from the original distributor. I don't think the tach signal is going to do it, and wiring it to the start circuit won't work either. The ECM needs that PIP signal to run the pump. If you're creative, you might be able to tap right off the GM pickup in the HEI distributor and feed it to the ECM, but thats uneccesary work. If you're going to run the in-tank pump, the easiest way is to remove all the EFI wiring and wire the fuel pump to a rely on the ignition signal. Fuel pump wires and ignition circuit wires come out in a plug near the cruise ball, tap into the connections you need there.


                                Also, I hope you have a regulator of some sort. That stock pump will probably do 50 psi or better dead-headed. You'd blow the carb right apart without a regulator. Probably need a return type due to the volume of fuel the pumps move.
                                Last edited by gadget73; 09-16-2008, 12:40 AM.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X