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    Strange Idling Problem

    Hey guys, Vicky developed a new problem recently. Ok so I started the car like always, let it warm up a little. I noticed the power steering pump was making some noise, so I walked away from it to the back porch to see if we had any fluid I could put in. Before I could even start looking, the idle took off. It went very high. So I quickly ran to the car and tried to see what was going on. As soon as I got back, the idle went back down. I started to leave again and the idle went up again. So I put it into gear and instantly died down. It didn't pull any more than it would any other time. But when I put it into either park or neutral, after a few seconds, the engine would raise really high. So I thought, it must be the IAC. So I unplugged it, and sure enough it did not do any funky stuff. And what's funny is that I didn't notice any change in idle after unplugging it. So I had another IAC motor I put in. It didn't change the idle at all. So I thought that was weird. I removed that one and when I did the idle shot up once again. So I was looking at the valve the motor went in (the part that bolts to the throttle body). I found out that it was sticking. So I changed it out with another one (the one that came with the other motor) This one didn't stick. and put the original IAC motor on it. Same as before no change in idle, but sometimes the idle would go high, which is leading me to believe that both of the IAC motors I have are bad. Am I right to assume this? Also, I want to check the voltage on the IAC harness wires, what are the specs for it? And could this be the reason my car won't start in the cold?

    #2
    Make sure the throttle plate stop screw isn't holding the butterfly valve open, so you take that variable out of the equation.
    Originally posted by gadget73
    There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
    91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
    93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
    Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
    Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
    95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 91waggin View Post
      Make sure the throttle plate stop screw isn't holding the butterfly valve open, so you take that variable out of the equation.
      Isn't it supposed to hold it out somewhat so it doesn't get stuck closed?

      Comment


        #4
        Anything is possible... how far does the car usually get driven? short trips???
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

        Comment


          #5
          there are a few other things that could cause the problem. Have you run codes on it?
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

          Comment


            #6
            bad temperature sensors can do this.it will show up as a trouble code if thats the case.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Gadget, by bad Temperature Sensor do you mean the ECT? Or the thing that's on the driver's side of the intake? I haven't scanned it for trouble codes since it left the school about 2 years ago. I think I will go ahead and run a test. I'll let you guys know what I find.

              Comment


                #8
                both the ect and the act can do this.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  both the ect and the act can do this.
                  How much do the ACTs go for?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    test it before replacing it. voltage to temperature charts at fordfuelinjection.com. they dont go bad that often. check for codes too before throwing parts at the car.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                      test it before replacing it. voltage to temperature charts at fordfuelinjection.com. they dont go bad that often. check for codes too before throwing parts at the car.
                      ok gonna do that now, thanks thain. One more question though. To scan codes with the check engine light, will I need to reattach those two senders for the idiot light?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        there is no check engine light on an 86. you have to use the test light method.


                        and you should not be detaching sensors, it will set codes that make troubleshooting impossible.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          there is no check engine light on an 86. you have to use the test light method.


                          and you should not be detaching sensors, it will set codes that make troubleshooting impossible.
                          Not the sensors, the senders, for the idiot light, the oil pressure sender and the temperature sender. I don't have a use for them since I have gauges now.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok, I have determined that the ACT is indeed the problem. When unplugged, the idle is absolutely fine. No more shuttering, no random idle jumps, and the exhaust no longer smells as rich. I will be picking up a new one soon.

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