Hey guys, Vicky developed a new problem recently. Ok so I started the car like always, let it warm up a little. I noticed the power steering pump was making some noise, so I walked away from it to the back porch to see if we had any fluid I could put in. Before I could even start looking, the idle took off. It went very high. So I quickly ran to the car and tried to see what was going on. As soon as I got back, the idle went back down. I started to leave again and the idle went up again. So I put it into gear and instantly died down. It didn't pull any more than it would any other time. But when I put it into either park or neutral, after a few seconds, the engine would raise really high. So I thought, it must be the IAC. So I unplugged it, and sure enough it did not do any funky stuff. And what's funny is that I didn't notice any change in idle after unplugging it. So I had another IAC motor I put in. It didn't change the idle at all. So I thought that was weird. I removed that one and when I did the idle shot up once again. So I was looking at the valve the motor went in (the part that bolts to the throttle body). I found out that it was sticking. So I changed it out with another one (the one that came with the other motor) This one didn't stick. and put the original IAC motor on it. Same as before no change in idle, but sometimes the idle would go high, which is leading me to believe that both of the IAC motors I have are bad. Am I right to assume this? Also, I want to check the voltage on the IAC harness wires, what are the specs for it? And could this be the reason my car won't start in the cold?
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Make sure the throttle plate stop screw isn't holding the butterfly valve open, so you take that variable out of the equation.Originally posted by gadget73There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
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Anything is possible... how far does the car usually get driven? short trips???Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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bad temperature sensors can do this.it will show up as a trouble code if thats the case.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Gadget, by bad Temperature Sensor do you mean the ECT? Or the thing that's on the driver's side of the intake? I haven't scanned it for trouble codes since it left the school about 2 years ago. I think I will go ahead and run a test. I'll let you guys know what I find.
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both the ect and the act can do this.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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test it before replacing it. voltage to temperature charts at fordfuelinjection.com. they dont go bad that often. check for codes too before throwing parts at the car.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Posttest it before replacing it. voltage to temperature charts at fordfuelinjection.com. they dont go bad that often. check for codes too before throwing parts at the car.
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there is no check engine light on an 86. you have to use the test light method.
and you should not be detaching sensors, it will set codes that make troubleshooting impossible.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postthere is no check engine light on an 86. you have to use the test light method.
and you should not be detaching sensors, it will set codes that make troubleshooting impossible.
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Ok, I have determined that the ACT is indeed the problem. When unplugged, the idle is absolutely fine. No more shuttering, no random idle jumps, and the exhaust no longer smells as rich. I will be picking up a new one soon.
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