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    no start condition persists....

    SO I found out some things and replaced some things and this is where I am.
    -Starter tested OK
    -Old alternator was indeed BAD
    -New 3G alternator is GOOD
    -Ignition switch replaced
    -Battery is 2 months old
    -Loose ground in O2 harness re-attached

    The battery is now drained for some reason, so I jumped it and everything lit up properly and seems great. Then when I try to start her up I hear NOTHING. There is a little pop noise but nothing else. Any ideas?
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    Bad batt. connections/ground, shorted out hot wire.
    1984 CV tudor 351W, 4bbl, 5-speed best time in the 1/8 8.39 at 80 with 1.80 60ft time.
    2006 P71, 1988 Bronco II, 1986 Baby LTD(5.0 & T5 swap in progress), 1976 16' Hobie Cat, 12' AquaFinn
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2651997 UPDATED 20100826
    sigpic

    Comment


      #3
      timing off for sum odd reason maybe....no power to the coil.....any starvation of fuel???
      Last edited by Wray-Wray; 08-30-2008, 11:32 PM.
      My old 87 Mercury Grand Marquis-RIP- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3016650
      Now Driving A
      1999 Mercury Mountaineer with the 5.0 V8 its also AWD..... Atleast I'm keeping it in the Mercury family right?

      Comment


        #4
        Wray-wray....he said it starts fine off of a jump. Timing is obviously not the issue here, and power must be getting to the coil otherwise it wouldn't run at all, even off a jump.

        Just to remove another variable from the picture, find some way of making sure the battery's good. My favorite way to do that is just take it back to where you bought it and claim it failed and have it replaced under warranty. Or you can have it tested. Whatever--just make sure it didn't randomly crap out on you. New batteries do fail sometimes.

        Since it starts fine off of a jump, it sure sounds like the alternator isn't charging. Did you fuse the 3g charging wire? Make sure that fuse didn't blow.
        Originally posted by gadget73
        There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
        91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
        93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
        Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
        Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
        95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

        Comment


          #5
          have you charged the battery?

          once you get the car started, make sure the alternator is charging. if its not charging at 13.5v or more. it will drain the battery in a hurry.
          2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
          89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
          88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


          I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

          Comment


            #6
            I'm with them. Do you know the age of the battery cables? I had start problems in my Cherokee a few years back and replacing the battery cables had it smoking for a week straight because it was getting so much more fire through the ignition it as burning shit out of the motor.

            My vote is on bad battery or bad cables. Like 88grandmarq said- put it on a charger and have it tested. New batteries can go bad; that's why they have warranties. If your alternator was bad, the battery may be DEAD as a result of that.
            2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
            1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
            1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

            Comment


              #7
              Update...The battery is GOOD, and the alternator charges 13.5V at least. My problem now is that I get nothing no matter what I do. There is no power to anything no matter where I put the key. Even when I try to jump the car there is no power. What kind of fuses are related to this and is there a main relay that could have died somewhere? Pictures of my 3G wiring included just to make sure I did it right. Also of pic of my starter relay, hoping its ok to put the 175 amp fuse right on that positive terminal..The BLACK wire is the 3g alternator charge wire.




              Brand new Positive and Negative battery cables.....
              Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 08-31-2008, 08:06 PM.
              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

              Comment


                #8
                Was there a black and orange wire on the starter solenoid before you changed to the 3G? It would have come from the old 2g alt. and ran around the front of the car to the solenoid. When I changed to a 3g I took that one off and nothing happened when I turned the key, I put it back on and it started fine.
                89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Glen View Post
                  Was there a black and orange wire on the starter solenoid before you changed to the 3G? It would have come from the old 2g alt. and ran around the front of the car to the solenoid. When I changed to a 3g I took that one off and nothing happened when I turned the key, I put it back on and it started fine.
                  yeah there was a black and red wire and a yellow wire that were fused into one and on the starter solenoid, but I removed them because I didn't have them hooked up on the other side of the engine anymore. That must be it...damnit I cut them off too so now I need to re- connect them? anyone know why these wires matter?
                  1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was about to post about those. They have something to do with your ignition power. When my 2G harness lit up I had no ignition power until those were repaired.

                    Hopefully that's all it is!
                    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      That's why I left them hooked up to the starter solenoid when I did my 3g swap. I figured there might be something left. Hopefully you didn't delete the entire harness.

                      Say, where did you get the 175A fuse with the Ford emblem?
                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                      91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                      93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                      Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                      Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                      95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 91waggin View Post
                        Say, where did you get the 175A fuse with the Ford emblem?
                        Magic 8 ball says: Ford Taurus.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          +2

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Nifty. Looks exactly like the one I got from Shucks, but it has a Ford emblem. Kewl.
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                            Comment


                              #15
                              GOT HER RUNNING!!!!!! 3G swap is GOOD! Battery turned out to be completely fried, as in 0 on the multimeter. Re- attached those wires I took off and she runs. Scared me when I put the negative battery terminal on though - a HUGE arch shot off it and splattered some of the metal on the terminal. I guess thats from the increased gauge wires I am now using, more current flowing, yada yada (correct me if you think something is wrong here). So for now, Anabelle is doing well. Thanks again to everyone for their help, I couldn't have done it without ya'll!
                              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                              Comment

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