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    Idle setting?

    Hey guys, I'm new here. I just can't believe the sheer amount of information available in this forum! Everyone here is very knowledgeable and I look forward to participating in the future..

    Please forgive me if I use any improper terms when explaining my problem, I am very used to early to mid 60's cars and engine configurations, all this EEC and emissions and sensor shit has got me a little.. overwhelmed.

    I bought a 85 Grand Marq cheap last week, as a car for my fiancee to learn to drive in, and eventually it will be hers. It only has 65k original miles on it, and not a spot of rust (VERY unusual for a Wisconsin car) ! Paint is faded, though, almost no clear coat left.

    The car was idling poorly cold (seeking idle, up and down in 2-3 second cycles and sometimes stalling), and pretty good when warm, but very rich. I thought it was a choke problem, and I was right! The choke spring had disengaged entirely from the fast idle cam (how did that happen??), and it (the cam) was floating loosely.

    I fixed the choke, but now the car idles like it's on crank, even kicked down. There is a fast idle adjustment screw, but it's backed out almost entirely. Also, it seems that there is a vacuum triggered kickdown... uh.. thingy that should disengage the cam (I assume when the engine is finally warm enough), but it dosen't seem to be doing it's job.

    On a carb, this problem would be trivially simple. With a mess of sensors and vacuum lines, I'm stuck. I don't have a shop manual yet, but I got a EVTM and a Ford BCE and PLM manuals from eBay for cheap.

    Until then, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

    Edit:

    5.0L (302in2) CFI
    Last edited by hekk; 06-24-2008, 09:05 PM. Reason: added engine info

    #2
    Pete is the CFI king; he should be able to help you....BUT almost everybody on this forum who started with CFI has swapped it for a carb and just ripped all the sensors and shit out, or you could do this if you're brave:

    Everything to do with interior and body electrical including headlights and tail lights. CFI specific discussions and AC/heating systems.


    Your mileage will go waaaay up if you go from CFI to EFI.


    BTW:
    Originally posted by gadget73
    There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
    91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
    93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
    Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
    Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
    95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 91waggin View Post
      Pete is the CFI king; he should be able to help you....BUT almost everybody on this forum who started with CFI has swapped it for a carb and just ripped all the sensors and shit out, or you could do this if you're brave:

      Everything to do with interior and body electrical including headlights and tail lights. CFI specific discussions and AC/heating systems.


      Your mileage will go waaaay up if you go from CFI to EFI.


      BTW:
      Wow! Looks like fun allright, but more of a long term thing.

      Comment

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