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    #1

    Odd Run Problem??

    OK guys, I searched for this, but couldn't come up with anything relatively close.

    I am on my way home from picking up the kids...about 85 outside, running the air, cruising along about 60, when all of a sudden she just starts "bucking" and quit. I coasted to a safe place to pull off, looked under the hood to see if maybe the accelerator cable had come off. (it wouldn't accelerate right before it died) Everything was hooked up as usual, and it would crank normally, just wouldn't "catch"

    After sitting for a few minutes, I tried again, and she fired right up! COOL! now I can get the kids home! NOOOOOOT! after about a mile, it did the same thing....again....again...I had to follow this same procedure three times to get the 5 miles home. Seemed to run ok when it was slightly cool, but died when it got good and hot. (temp gauge stayed right in the middle...new sending unit)

    now, I removed the IAC, and it was not dirty...tried the code (grounding the STI and counting flashes and kept getting 11 and 33....11 twice in a row, and then 33 twice in a row.

    Guys, I need to have this thing back up and running by 3:00 am Monday!
    People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

    1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger
    Tags: None
    #2
    You shouldn't be able to get 11 and any other code. 33 is an EGR code, means the EGR isn't opening. It could be the sensor but more often its a busted vacuum line. The bucking sounds like EGR full open though, which doesn't really add up. Try plugging the vacuum line for the egr valve and see if it quits acting stupid. When mine was doing this, it was bad EGR control solenoid, basically making the valve go 100% open or full closed instead of varying position based on conditions.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment

      #3
      It could have been the way it was flashing at me then. I don't have a tester, and it's 20 miles to the nearest Autozone, or any other parts store, and I don't trust driving it that far.

      as far as plugging the vacuum line....it never really "acts" stupid...when it runs, it runs fine, until it shuts off. Ima pull and clean the EGR valve today, it has 2 vac. lines made together into one fitting, and everything seems to run up under the UI. I guess Ima have to pull that bastard off.
      People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

      1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger

      Comment

        #4
        the line for the egr valve is right on the side of the egr valve, no need to remove anything to disconnect it. Just pull it right at the egr valve and stick a screw or something in there to plug it.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          Sorry to bring back up an old thread but I am at my wits end here.

          I thought I had this thing licked. Everything seemed to be ok (or so it seemed)
          until I decided to meet the wife for lunch a few days back.

          I had cleaned/checked/tested EGR/EVP sensor, cleaned/checked/tested IAC motor, replaced ignition module AND coil pickup, set timing correctly, wires are fairly new, and plugs look great, fuel filter is less than two months old.

          So....I take wife to lunch...45 miles to her office, run around town a bit, take her back, start home, get about 20 miles down the road (about an hour and a half of driving in 85-90 degree weather) on the expressway, and all of a sudden it just starts bucking like it wants to throw me through the windshield, and then just quits.

          So I pull over to the shoulder and sit for maybe 5, maybe 7 minutes, turn the key, and after a few worrisome seconds, she fires right up!

          I drive maybe anothe 2-3 miles...same thing...quits again. Just shuts right off in the middle of the expressway. Again, I pull off, and sit a few, and let 'er cool for a couple more minutes, and try again, this time I make it maybe another mile, mile and a half.

          SHIT!

          Screw it. So I figure Ima let it cool WAY down and see what happens.
          So I sit there 25 maybe 30 minutes this time with the hood up to assist cooling, hop in, it fires right up, and I drive the next 10 miles or so home with no problems whatsoever!

          OK...It's throwing NO codes. (had it checked)
          temp gauge does not read hot, (new sender) and it does not smell hot, flushed and refilled radiator this past fall.

          Dad said it did it to he and mom a couple times too a few years back.

          This car is REALLY starting to piss me off.

          Any (helpful) suggestions?
          People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

          1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger

          Comment

            #6
            Check for spark/ fuel the next time it won't start? Or have you done that?

            My car is carbed, but I had a similar problem this past spring, and it occured with no pattern. I replaced the pick up coil (actually the entire distributor), the control module, etc, and nothing worked. I'd think I'd have it kicked, and then it would just die on me. Super, super, super frustrating; I wanted to junk the car. I was on my way to a major exam when morning when the bastard quit on me; I sat aside cursing the car up and down.

            The cause for me was actually the sock that goes on the fuel pickup. It was plugged up (and falling apart), and I guess part of it would get pulled into the pickup, and then the car would just stumble out, and then die.

            People also recommended the ignition switch (in the column).

            It sounds to me like it may be an electrical issue. Checking for spark and fuel might shed some light on that. I know the fuel pump wiring on my EFI burnout car is very tender, and it makes for intermittent operation.

            Just some thoughts. Don't give up on it though; thats the worst thing you can do.
            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
            **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
            **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
            **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

            Comment

              #7
              classic symptoms of a failing TFI module.

              OR, the fuel pump is getting hot and failing.
              2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
              89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
              88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006

              I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

              Comment

                #8
                My car did very similar things. It ended up being the fuel filter. It could also be the pickup in the dist.
                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                Comment

                  #9
                  TFI module, dist pickup, ign. switch in column, and fuel filter are all new....guess I'll pop for a new fuel pump.

                  As an aside, somone mentioned (outside this forum) that it might be the cats getting hot and starting to clog, said it happened to them on an '85 F-150....any thoughts?
                  People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

                  1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger

                  Comment

                    #10
                    that's possible too. I clogged the stock cats on my wagon and I just revved the piss out of it for a bit and it cleaned them out. HAve you seafoamed the intake recently?
                    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                    Comment

                      #11
                      ever put a temperature gauge on the car? they chug and buck when overheating.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment

                        #12
                        A simple fuel pressure test will tell you right away if you have failing fuel pump. leave the gauge connected and get the car up to running temp, fuel pressure should fall off if
                        the pump is failing.

                        have you checked the battery connections? heat and humity cause corosion to do funky things. there is a seperate ECM power connection in the wire harness, around the starter solenoid, make sure that is clean and tight. also clean and tighten the ground connections.
                        2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                        89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                        88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006

                        I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I was dicking around under the hood this morning and noticed that the coil wire doesn't "snap" onto the posts at either end like it should, seems to almost just drop on there, and upon closer inspection, it seems as it may have been that way for a while, looks like it has eaten (eroded?) pits into the metal tip on the coil tower. Same on Dist. tower. Looks like a lot of arcing (sp?) has been going on under there!

                          Great. Now I gotta spend more money I ain't got on a daily driver I can't trust.

                          I am officially taking offers.
                          People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. ~ George Orwell

                          1990 Crown Vic, 2006 Ford Fusion, 2003 Ranger

                          Comment

                            #14
                            really doubt thats the cause of the problem you are having. even if the spark is weak the motor should start and run.

                            clean/sand the terminals and use some pliers to squeeze the ends of the coil wire for a tighter fit. use some di-electric grease on the connections to keep out moisture.
                            check the coil wire for excessive resistance with a DVOM. Most Napa stores sell individual plug/coil wires.
                            2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                            89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                            88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006

                            I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                            Comment

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