225* isn't gonna do anything.
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the stupid "engine" light
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Possible, but it could well be a clogged radiator. If its original its probably crusty inside. Thermostats are cheaper tho.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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change the thermostat first.....they are cheap.........if no improvement, change the radiator......they get all full of junk after 20 yrs
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Thermostats are cheap, but you can check it and make sure it's working by dumping it in some boiling water with an instant-read cooking thermometer in the water. You can watch it open and close if you take it out with some tongs and then put it back in. It's also cool just to watch for the hell of it, if you have to pull the t-stat.Originally posted by gadget73There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
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Testing a new one before installing it is also a good idea, they have been known to be defective out of the box.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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My "check engine light" came on last week.... 1990 CV 5.0 The car never runs hot and actually I think it runs on the cool side. Just a day or so before the light coming on I replaced both serpentine belts and had the alternator rebuilt. THe old belts were worn out and slipping. The new ones are on good and tight.
The check engine light only comes on at idle and goes off when accelerating. I wonder if the engine RPM had dropped at idle because of the tighter belts ... Any ideas ?
Regards
Doug
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Sound like you have low oil pressure.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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The car runs fine, does not smoke or anything, good power. I thought it might have something to do with the idle screw needing adjustment ...... It is the orange light that came on from the computor. I thought the red engine light had to do with low oil pressure ...
cheers
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Oooh, it's fuel injected?
I thought the computer light was only supposed to come on when it's throwing a code - meaning, it comes on and stays on until the code is cleared.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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If it's a 90, you have an actual oil pressure light which is red and shaped like an oil can. If your YELLOW "Check Engine" light is coming on, you need to pull codes.
87CP--the EFI computer will often set codes and not put the light on.
On OBD-II cars (post 1996), the check engine light will come on when it sets a code and leave it on until the code is cleared, but Ford's EEC-IV is just stupid like that.Originally posted by gadget73There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
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my money is on TPS, but check it for codes to find out.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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