I just pulled my motor out

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Hey everyone I just pulled the motor out of Anabelle. It went pretty smoothly and I got the motor on an engine stand. The only thing I did incorrectly was neglect to drain the torque converter and the tranny, and a ton of fluid leaked out all over the floor. I'm going to go ahead and take the block to a shop to see what kind of shape its in. Anything I should do while the engine is out?

[gadget73]

Degrease the engine bay, and inspect the brake lines at the prop valve since they'll be a bit easier to see without the motor in the way. Check out the fuel lines, especially where it dissapears between body and frame under the A pillar, the line likes to rot out right there. If you're up to it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do the motor mounts, though fair warning, they are kind of a pain in the ass with the suspension in place. You'll need good flex joints and patience to get them out.


I've never drained a trans when pulling the motor. Just have to keep a floor jack under it to keep it from dropping and dumping fluid. It hangs from the shift linkage and bends it otherwise. Been there, done that. If you need to support it and can't leave your jack under the trans, tale a 2x4 and lay it across the fender. Use some rope through the bellhouse bolt holes to tie it up to the 2x4. Rags under the 2x4 where it sits on the fenders are also a good idea.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Cool, I will do those things. I was looking at a forged rotating assembly and I found this:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3210,140_302-Ford-Forged-Steel-Rotating-Assembly.html

will this fit with no complications as far as bore/stroke/compression ratio goes? Also will this make more power than the stock lo-po pistons? or are the compression ratios pretty much the same?

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Heres some pictures!





That boom was BARELY long enough on the 1/2 ton position, but I made it work.

[Lincolnmania]

should have unbolted the torque convertor from the flexplate mang
do not try to install it that way!!!

[gadget73]

Replace the front trans seal while its out just in case it got damaged, didn't know you pulled the converter with the motor. Definitely don't install it that way. Its nearly a guarantee that it won't seat properly and the transmission will self destruct as a result.


Also, a little trick with the transmission input shaft. Grind an X on the end of the shaft that goes into the transmission. It helps keep the planetary gears from starving for lube. http://www.clickclickracing.com/foru...ead.php?t=2444 for pics. This is the smaller center shaft that will slide right out of the transmission.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Good things to know, thanks guys. I guess it is possible to bolt those four nuts that attach the converter to the flexplate with the converter installed then, but I had to use an impact to remove then they were soo tight.

Do you all think I can swap the crank, pistons and rods by myself for the first time? or should I have a shop do some of the work. What is the most difficult part of redoing the bottom end?

[mrltd]

the shop will have to bore the block, and should do a line bore. The bottom end assembly process isn't too difficult if you do it right and measure everything 10 times...

Forged steel crank? just a tad of an overkill, unless you are also buying a Dart or Boss block and some really nice flowing heads.

[marquisman]

i was lucky to have an A-frame with electric 1-ton to do the swap in my wagon. i also disconeccted the torque convereter from the fly-wheel when the motor was still in the car...what are your plans for the engine?

[Mercracer]

A forged rotating assy will accelerate slower than a cast one. Higher rotating mass robs power. Forged increases your durability at high RPM/Power levels. 3-400HP is a waste for a forged crank. Cast steel will get the job done for a 500HP motor. Put the money into your heads, not your crank.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

oh ok, then I will stick with the cast crank, are the rods good for 3-400 horsepower? I want to run a 512 lift 288dur cam or F303 cam, is that a good choice? I'm open for all suggestions on cam/piston combinations. I want that bumpity bump sound and some low end grunt, with a little more aggression then the stock .444 mustang cam.

[mrltd]

bumpity bump and low end grunt don't really go together.

Niether of those cams look good for heavy cars. I'm running a XE264 cam. it's 264/270 and 512/512. With 3.73's, a 2400 stall converter, and wide ratio the car will barely squeek the tires on a launch. And XE258 would work well or a explorer cam works well in a towncar.

If you want to run a big cam, be prepared to get a 2800 or so stall converter and 3.73 or lower gears.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

what is the stock converter's rating? My trans is also just a stock AOD and I have 3.08 or 3.27 gears. How does this setup sound?
-2800-3200 stall
-3.73 gears
-AOD
-F303 cam
-Ported E7's
-Cobra intakes
-65mm TB
-Lightning EGR
-Mustang pistons with valve reliefs
-19lb injectors
-Mark VII EEC

[mrltd]

Cobra intake won't work without a lot of modifications due to the integral EGR spacer. Gt40, Explorer, or one of those china Typhoon intakes.

That setup should be OK. Not to sure how well the F cam will work with untuned speed density though.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Ahh crap, I am also running speed density, so I'd need a chip for anything but the stock mustang cam right?