Out of ideas gas out of carb.cont from noobie

[Mercracer]

I will describe your pictures 3 and 4 so that my diagnosis of your timing being fine makes more sense... Your dampener rotates clockwise. Your distributor rotor rotates counter clockwise. If you rotate your crankshaft counterclockwise so that your pointer is aligned with the 10 to 15 degree BTDC marks your rotor will rotate clockwise and end up aligned perfectly with your #1 cyl post on your distributor cap.
I seriously hope that your efforts now focus on your obvious fuel problem......

[Archangel]

leiscustoms, I didn't see you answer my question - where are you located? Truck guys often help each other with working on our vehicles (and sometimes other stuff), maybe there's a GMN member somewhere near you that could lend you a hand with your car?

[Leiscustoms]

Alright so im an idiot, still think that shits off by like two posts. But you guys are a lot more knowledgeable than me, you say its good, than BEAM i like it, so
I found a brand new carb, its a four barrel so it will come with a new intake its alluminum, i know this may be overkill, but campared to what ive already paid for this abvious peice of shit carb, all i want to know is WILL THAT WORK??
Thanks.
I like in Guelph Ontario Canada. hour from t.o.

[Archangel]

Alright so im an idiot, still think that shits off by like two posts.

Then rotate the engine till the crank is at 10*BTDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1, the just loosend the clamp-down bolt of the dizzy and rotate dizzy till the #1 post lines up with the rotor under it.

But you guys are a lot more knowledgeable than me, you say its good, than BEAM i like it, so I found a brand new carb, its a four barrel so it will come with a new intake its alluminum, i know this may be overkill, but campared to what ive already paid for this abvious peice of shit, WILL THAT WORK??

What carb you found, and what intake? Hint: a 750cfm double-pumper Holley is NOT the correct answer, lol

I like in Guelph Ontario Canada. hour from t.o.

We got other folks from Kanadia here, maybe one of them will be able to help out? You gotta make sure you got some beer tho, as nothing comes for free

[Leiscustoms]

K so i guess i have the wrong answer,
Edlebrock Torker w/new 600 CFM Holley Carb 289-302 Ford

so i can just spin that baby around?

and oh ya i got beer. and if canabis is notorious for anything, I mean Canada is natorious for anything...

[Mercracer]

still think that shits off by like two posts.

There isn't a 2 post difference in your pictures so where are you getting 2 posts from?????

Do yourself and us all a favor and take the time to align the straight edge of the pointer with the 10 degree BDC mark... Then look to see where the rotor is pointing......
Turn the engine so that the rotor is pointing exactly to the #1 cyl post of the distributor cap and look to see EXACTLY what number the timing pointer is aligned with......
Have you listened and made a mark on the inside edge of the distributor cap adapter where the #1 cyl post is?????

all i want to know is WILL THAT WORK??

Why would you go through the trouble of putting a new carb and intake on when you haven't taken the time to verify that your current carb is bad?????????????
You mentioned pulling a plug to verify spark..... That must mean that you have verified spark to be good... With fresh plugs and no fuel line going to the carb (and the line going to the pump on the engine taken off and plugged) so that it can't overflow, you should be trying to start the car...... If you followed the directions any excess fuel will already be out of the intake and your new plugs should be dry.. After trying for a couple of seconds you should verify that there is enough fuel in the carb for fuel to squirt from your accelerator pump when you move the throttle lever..... If it is dry, pour a tiny bit of fuel down the carb..... The car should start...... It will die when that fuel is burned up... Hook the fuel lines back up and start it again..... If fuel squirts out of the vent holes, you need to put a fresh needle and seat in the carb....

[Leiscustoms]

Ya ill go for that in the morning, just got so many requests for the timming.
On pictures, you can see a peice of masking tape inside, where the #1 post is, when the dampener reads between 0-10 the rotor is at two to the left, anyway like i said im sure im reading it wrong if your all saying its good,
I guess thats a good call ill go over the carb tommorrow, if i cant find a suitable plug for the gas line, can i just let it run into a plastic bottle.

[Archangel]

K so i guess i have the wrong answer,
Edlebrock Torker w/new 600 CFM Holley Carb 289-302 Ford

By wrong I mean the "750cfm double-pumper" part, not the fact tis a Holley - I prefer Holley myself, but that's entirely thanks to the beautiful 650 spreadbore double-pumper Holley I had in my Chevy, and the evil Edelbrock I ended up with in my 4x4. However, I agree with Mercracer, if needle and seat is all you really need for your carb to work (and likely that's just the case), why waste money and go with an aftermarket carb and intake? Just so you know, unless your Holley has one of those aftermarket adjust-a-jet metering blocks you will have lots of fun pulling the front bowl and swapping in jets and power valves till you get it just right, I've had mine off so many times I had the procedure down to like 5-6 minutes start to finish - you will get annoyed, I guarantee you that, especially considering where how the Ford dizzy is right in front of the carb, thus limiting your access to it. So yeah, listen to the Knight, adjust your timing accordingly, dry-fire the car, and report back. Oh, and just for shit and giggles, hold the throttle lever on the carb, and try to move it around a bit - not turn it as if the cables are pulling on it, but wiggle it front-back up-down, and see how much play you feel, then report back with your findings again.

[Mercracer]

On pictures, you can see a peice of masking tape inside, where the #1 post is, when the dampener reads between 0-10 the rotor is at two to the left, .

Put the dampener/pointer EXACTLY on 10 BDC and EXACTLY on 15 BDC to see where the rotor is pointing..... "Between" 0 and 10 is naturally going to be to the left of the mark/tape.....

[Leiscustoms]

cool,
Boys, fuck wyotech. I'm going through Grandmarq.net university!!!
Its ten to three in the am so i gotta hit the hey, so ill let ya know, Besides the fact that i cant get around, this is so very interesting and educational.

[1987cp]

Boys, fuck wyotech. I'm going through Grandmarq.net university!!!

:lol: I kind of like the sound of that. It'd be neat if our collective knowledge could be enough to hold one or two accredited online tech courses ... doubt that could really happen, though.

[Nathan in MI]

:lol: I kind of like the sound of that. It'd be neat if our collective knowledge could be enough to hold one or two accredited online tech courses ... doubt that could really happen, though.

Hey, if you can get a degree in something as useless as art history or physics (:p), you should certainly be able to get a degree in Pantherology.

[1987cp]

You know, you just might be right!

eh, shucks. Now I'm contributing to BSing in a tech thread. Bad Mikey, bad!

[86VickyLX]

I talked to my shop teacher today. He said that it is what you guys said before, that it's the float and needle not seating properly. Get a carb rebuild kit and redo it, that should solve your problems, as for your no fire problem, he said that you have flooded your engine because of the way the float and needle are seated. Rebuild the carb, since you touched the distributor already, you will have to retime it anyway. :nonono: