The two biggest issues with cold-weather lubrication are slow flowing on startup and not boiling off volatile contaminants, right?
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Engine oil flush technique?
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Working with half my brain tied behind my back just to make it fair
- Sep 2011
- 7373
- Big Rapids, MI
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Pretty much, yeah. And the slow-flowing on startup is pretty well taken care of by synthetic oils--they flow better at low temperatures than petroleum-based oils do.
2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Post.
torquelover: a 160 is fine, my boat runs a 143 tstat and they're extremely clean inside. Having none at all or one thats stuck open is a bad thing.
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i use some trans fluid in the oil a couple hundred miles before oil change. when i do my own oil changes, i have 1 or 2 cheap qts. of oil to pour thru. i drive the car, drain the oil, than put plugs back in and dump cheap oil in... let it settle and flush crap out and let it get out of pan. than replug and add Valvoline like i always have...10w40 or the Valvoline high mileage every other or so to help clean it better.
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Originally posted by 1987cp View PostInteresting! That's the opposite of what's advised by Greg and the other Nate and other guys running 5W30 full synthetic.
Remind me what the higher zinc content does?
For engine that are older, the main objective of it is to prolong the life of the engine by diminishing wear.
I actually emailed John Deere about the product and asked them about the zinc content, as well as other characteristics of the oil. They were reluctant to elaborate much, but they did tell me that their product has a higher level of zinc. Whoever responded to me was curious as to why I was interested, and also noted that he couldn't say much aelse as it was "proprietary information". I was happy with what I learned though.
Michael, if you are really interested in oil tech, etc, I encourage you to read the article from the URL. My auto machinist gave it to me to read. You may find it interesting, and it may include some more complete answers to the questions you have about zinc, and oil in general.
This is the link for the oil we use: http://www.deere.com/en_US/parts/par...s50_15w40.html**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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VERY interesting article! Gotta love articles by Marlan Davis. I hadn't considered how different the oiling requirements could be for a flat-tappet motor like yours versus a roller motor like mine.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by brokebill View Posttempted to try seafoam for the intake(not in the oil) but a little hesitant.1984 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murphmobile (RIP)
1985 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murph Deuce (SOLD)
1978 Chevrolet Caprice Classic, The Crapiece (current project)
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got some deep creep today (my napa was out of the regular seafoam) and cleaned out the throttle body real good with it.
didnt have to use much and seemed to clean it out pretty good. just a little bit of smoke. will have to wait and see how it does on the open road as i just drove it around the house to blow it out.
thanks, Bills265.photobucket.com/albums/ii208/brokebill/
"Ain't we gonna bury him ?"
"Buzzards gotta eat same as worms."
----outlaw josey wales
(88 LTD Crown Vic LX-Ruby)
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