Engine oil flush technique?

[85MercPark]

And what some don't realize is just cause it's black doesn't mean it's bad.

Sludge=bad though.

[Heretic]

Even with regular oil changes old-school Quaker State oil used to sludge pretty badly. I believe they fixed the formulation a few years ago. The only oil I usually use besides Mobil 1 is Castrol GTX dino oil. Never had a problem using either oil.

Sludge build up is naturally inherent in the way engines work. I would like to see more research on the diesel thing, however my 351 is not going to be the guinea pig for this... I would like to find a harmless easy way to clean an engine [other than during a rebuild]. Time to Google...

[Heretic]

A quick look reveals very mixed opinions on the ATF in the crankcase, however, I found nothing on diesel fuel. I will have to look into this further later.

[Grandmarchris]

Just run a can of Berrymang chemtool through it...I am when I gotta change my oil next time

[murphmobile2]

ever heard of seafoam? it does the same thing.

That's what I use. Half a can of Seafoam, cleans her right out.

And I used to use Quaker State with a Fram Tough Guard... but I've upgraded my choice of oil since then. I now use Castrol GTX High Mileage with a Bosch premium filter. I have been using this on my Bonneville, and I am switching to it in the LTD this spring. Already have the Seafoam in the old oil, and the fresh Castrol in the garage.

[gabegt90]

I always run a bottle a rislone treatment every oil change keeps it clean

[torquelover]

One thing about oil and filters people forget about:

If the oil and the filter are clean after several thousand miles, they're both probably not doing their jobs.

[gadget73]

I just change the oil on a regular basis and use a thermostat. Never pulled a motor apart that was nasty that got any sort of basic maintainence. No thermostat is a sure way to get them really nasty, the oil won't get hot enough to cook the contaminants out. Add to that poor oil change frequency and you get some really nasty goop.

[P72Ford]

One thing about oil and filters people forget about:

If the oil and the filter are clean after several thousand miles, they're both probably not doing their jobs.

Thats a good point. My oil is nasty, but no nastier than I would expect it to be when it comes out.

I don't add anything to the oil. I used seafoam (poured down the carb) one time, buit it didn't do that much. I don't think there is much flith in my engine.

I say change the oil and filter regularly (I do it once every 2000/50hrs; conventional John Deere 15W40 diesel oil; has a higher zinc content) and you won't have a problem.

Our '81 Caprice Estate Wagon with a 350 Olds' has nearly 300K on it, and its still clean inside.

[torquelover]

No thermostat is a sure way to get them really nasty, the oil won't get hot enough to cook the contaminants out. Add to that poor oil change frequency and you get some really nasty goop.

I had a 160*F thermostat in the POS for a while. I was told it would cake the oil and wear out the rings, but all is fine.

[1987cp]

I say change the oil and filter regularly (I do it once every 2000/50hrs; conventional John Deere 15W40 diesel oil; has a higher zinc content) and you won't have a problem.

Our '81 Caprice Estate Wagon with a 350 Olds' has nearly 300K on it, and its still clean inside.

Interesting! That's the opposite of what's advised by Greg and the other Nate and other guys running 5W30 full synthetic.

Remind me what the higher zinc content does?

I had a 160*F thermostat in the POS for a while. I was told it would cake the oil and wear out the rings, but all is fine.

I've heard similar things, but apparently haven't had problems either. My engines seem to really like having the coolant at 160 degrees. Even 180 is rather an improvement, which is probably what I'll go back to. Come to think of it, I also upped the thermostat temp to 195 around the same time I put in the 5W30 synth blend oil in the 306, and it doesn't really seem to like either.

[nfldfordltd]

I live in an extermely cold (-40 celcius) and extremely hot (+30 celcuis) climate and where I live there is no rust (thank GOD) but it's kind of isolated in Northeastern Canada (Labrador) where my only option to actually run my car is on a shitty gravel road. What do you guys suggest I do to prevent sludge buildup from all the idling during warm-up and stop-and-go driving? I came here 6 months ago and have changed my oil twice because I can only get cheap generic oil. Any input would be appreciated, it is a fact that engine failure here is an issue. The car is an 88 Town Car with 155,000 kms (roughly 90,000 miles)

[1987cp]

My in-laws used to live in Alaska where it sometimes got down to -75 degrees Farenheit, and honestly other than running an engine block heater, I don't remember hearing much about special things they did to keep their engines alive. I hadn't really wondered about it either; I'll have to check. I will say, though, that I don't think the fact that most of their trips were at least a half-hour and there was a lot less traffic than in the city was at all bad for the cars.

[brokebill]

i ran 5w30 in Ruby when i first got her and about a year of running that she started blowing oil out everywhere.
garage said she was fucked and she might go another week or another month or might not get me home that day.

got home and used gunk motor flush and changed the pcv valve and had to clean the hose running to it.
fixed her right up.
i run 10w30 castrol in her now and use the 5 minute gunk flush every couple of oil changes.
has worked well the last 5 years .

tempted to try seafoam for the intake(not in the oil) but a little hesitant.

[gadget73]

I live in an extermely cold (-40 celcius) and extremely hot (+30 celcuis) climate and where I live there is no rust (thank GOD) but it's kind of isolated in Northeastern Canada (Labrador) where my only option to actually run my car is on a shitty gravel road. What do you guys suggest I do to prevent sludge buildup from all the idling during warm-up and stop-and-go driving? I came here 6 months ago and have changed my oil twice because I can only get cheap generic oil. Any input would be appreciated, it is a fact that engine failure here is an issue. The car is an 88 Town Car with 155,000 kms (roughly 90,000 miles)

Just change the oil per the severe duty schedule, and you should be OK. Severe duty calls for every 3,000 miles or 3 months I think, "standard" is like 5,000 or 5 months. As long as the engine comes up to normal operating temperature, it will go a long way towards cooking the garbage out of the oil. Its when its run around a lot on short trips that the motor never fully warms up that you have problems with sludge. Not changing the oil regularly also makes the problem much worse.


torquelover: a 160 is fine, my boat runs a 143 tstat and they're extremely clean inside. Having none at all or one thats stuck open is a bad thing.