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    Replacing ONE valve seal

    Is it possible, and if so, how hard to do. I've mentioned before that my #8 cylinder's exhaust valve seal leaks like a sieve. Every 5-600 miles I have to change the plug out due to the oil foul-out. I need to get another 10k outta this motor before Im ready to drop in the Explorer motor, so I need to do a feasibility study on replacing just that one seal.

    The goal here is if it can be done while still in the car. I was thinking mebbe somehow filling the cylinder with compressed air through the spark plug hole, and then taking off the rocker and spring. But I've never done anything like this, so all my knowledge is based on theory and Chiltons Manuals.

    Any advice is, as always, much appreciated

    The Admiral

    #2
    #8 has 2 seals since there are 2 valves lol. accually its not hard since its the left side. your gonna need an adapter for a airline to compress the cylender so when you remove the valve keepers you dont loose the valve in the cylender. you gots a valve spring compressor?

    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

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      #3
      You are looking at more than a leaky valve seal if it is that bad....

      Comment


        #4
        i'd lay money on it that there may be some piston damage to #8.......skippys vic does the exact same thing...put a hotter plug in #8 run the bitch

        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
          i'd lay money on it that there may be some piston damage to #8
          Hi

          My money is on a PCV valve fault and it's sucking oil into #8 cylinder.

          Regards

          Dereck
          President and founder of The Turbine Wheel Appreciation Society and Little Debbie Cake Connoissuer

          Also "The Pondside Pain In Your Posterior"

          Comment


            #6
            The PCV valve is at the back of the engine. That is where the vacuum is drawn from, not the source of the vacuum. If the valve were busted apart inside and oil was being sucked from the valve, the oil would end up in more than 1 cylinder as the vacuum is drawn into the upper intake......

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              #7
              Originally posted by Mercracer View Post
              The PCV valve is at the back of the engine. That is where the vacuum is drawn from, not the source of the vacuum. If the valve were busted apart inside and oil was being sucked from the valve, the oil would end up in more than 1 cylinder as the vacuum is drawn into the upper intake......
              Hi Mercracer

              I know where the PCV valve is located and it vents into the back of the intake.

              When I bought my old 88 Town Car the PCV valve was worn to the extreme, it was mostly cylinder #8 that filled with oil, the sparking plug would foul in only a couple hundred miles, cylinder 7's plug also fouled slightly but no other cylinders were affected.

              Regards

              Dereck
              President and founder of The Turbine Wheel Appreciation Society and Little Debbie Cake Connoissuer

              Also "The Pondside Pain In Your Posterior"

              Comment


                #8
                The PCV is in full working order, so I know its not that. And we did a leak-down check on the cylinder and it passed, so I may NOT have burnt the rings out. Sucker runs like a top until too much oil fouls out the plug. I've got the spring compressor for the valve spring, and the doober that takes the keeper off the top. Screwdriver lookin thing. Im tempted to try it myself.

                Hey Scott.. By hotter plug do you mean smaller gap, or is there actually a hotter range available for the plugs? I already have platinums in it, and they are gapped a lil further apart than stock to try and by some time before the oil closes the gap.
                The biggest reason I was tempted to fix this now, is that I have a bunch of weddings in the next few months, and all are short road-trips away (Maryland, Upstate New York, and Pittsburgh) And I dont feel like having to stop every couple hours to change a plug. Not to mention, I know running it too much with that cylinder misfiring will eventually cook the guts out of my brand new catalytic converters.

                I just need to find that adaptor for the air compressor. I may just be dumb enough to try this myself.


                Thanks y'all
                The Admiral


                P.S. I KNEW there were 2 seals, I just need to learn to check what I type better before posting sometimes lol

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by HerMajestysMechanic View Post
                  I already have platinums in it,
                  You know are car's realy dont like those plugs to well right? Mine got fowled quickly. And i think i member reading where Scott mang tried some a whille back and they where fowled in like 2 - 3 weaks hehe.
                  People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I always use Autolite Platinum plugs. I like them, and I haven't had any problems.
                    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                    **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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                      #11
                      If it were me I'd go ahead and replace them all.
                      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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                        #12
                        Hotter plug means higher heat range plug, it literally burns at a higher temperature - I ran a full set of 1-step-hotter plugs in my Chevy for fighting worn out valve guides, it worked even though engine was going through a quart of oil per week of city driving.

                        Also, you may wanna get some positive-seal spring loaded seals, even if you have really worn out valve guides those should stop oil from getting sucked in the chambers.

                        However, ware you sure tis the exhaust valve causing you issues? The only time oil can get sucked in past its stem is when the valve is open and there's airflow through it, however that airflow is always directed out the chamber so you should be getting dirty exhaust and possibly messed cat converter, and not a dead spark plug. Tis the intake valves leaking that fouls plugs, AFAIK.
                        Last edited by Guest; 02-15-2008, 06:30 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by HerMajestysMechanic View Post
                          The PCV is in full working order, so I know its not that. And we did a leak-down check on the cylinder and it passed, so I may NOT have burnt the rings out. Sucker runs like a top until too much oil fouls out the plug. I've got the spring compressor for the valve spring, and the doober that takes the keeper off the top. Screwdriver lookin thing. Im tempted to try it myself.

                          Hey Scott.. By hotter plug do you mean smaller gap, or is there actually a hotter range available for the plugs? I already have platinums in it, and they are gapped a lil further apart than stock to try and by some time before the oil closes the gap.
                          The biggest reason I was tempted to fix this now, is that I have a bunch of weddings in the next few months, and all are short road-trips away (Maryland, Upstate New York, and Pittsburgh) And I dont feel like having to stop every couple hours to change a plug. Not to mention, I know running it too much with that cylinder misfiring will eventually cook the guts out of my brand new catalytic converters.

                          I just need to find that adaptor for the air compressor. I may just be dumb enough to try this myself.


                          Thanks y'all
                          The Admiral


                          P.S. I KNEW there were 2 seals, I just need to learn to check what I type better before posting sometimes lol
                          I can get you a P/N on that fitting you're looking for. I know for a fact KD makes an air fitting for that specific purpose. I won't be at my job until Monday though, so if you can wait until then I can help you out a little. From there you could probably go to a place that sells KD tools (many autoparts stores) and ask them to order you that P/N. If you really have trouble finding it I could probably order one and mail it to you.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            some compression testers will actually work for this. The type with the detatchable hose that has a quick connect.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Its the intake, not the exhaust valve thats leaking. Wow, I must have been somewhat brain dead at work today. As for doin the rest or gettin into much more, its just not worth it. A stock lopo with 160k on it is not something I want to drop money on. I just wanna keep it running reasonably till the new motor is ready. I'll definetly check on the hotter plugs till I can do something bout it. As for the platinums, they work great, I mean no prollems at all with the other 7 cylinders..


                              And CHeeseSteakJim, I would definetly appreciate that part number. And Im not in THAT much of a hurry. A few days-weeks aint gonna KILL me. Liek I said, I just want a less temporary solution to the problem by the time I need to hit the road for those weddings. I think Im going to attempt this. Mebbe I'll learn a few things that'll help when I put together the GT40Ps for the new motor

                              You guys rock btw, thanks

                              The Admiral

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