I have found a place that deals with mustang salvage. going from a '87 MGM, to 90's mustang. what wiring would I have to change or upgrade? they are asking $300 for computer wiring. also I can buy an electronic AOD with ECU for $700. could that work? and is it a good deal?
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First I would like to say thank you all for your help.
Second I am a complete idiot!!!! I am trying to go HO when I have only basic idea of what to do on adding more power, when I should do what I am good at “CARBED!” I will be able to do so much more with it. Now what short block should I look for? Mustang or explorer?We all make mistakes.......... That’s why paste is edible!
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exploder imo, better heads and usually in better shape.
Mustangs will have forged slugs in the motor but thats about it, heads are barely adequate.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
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Consider this, if you get an Explorer motor and want to carb it. You need the following:
timing cover with fuel pump provisions (mech pump only)
fuel pump eccentric (if using a mech pump)
all the stock accessories
change the valve springs
modify the fuel system to work with a carb
purchase a compatible ignition system
remove all the efi wiring
purchase a compatible intake
purchase a carb
purchase compatible headers
change the oil pan
If you go Explorer, and keep the EFI, you need this:
your stock distributor out of the old motor
stock timing cover from the old motor
accessories from the old motor
wiring from the old motor
fuel rail from the old motor
injectors from the explorer motor
purchase compatible headers
the Lightning egr spacer
modify the explorer throttle body with parts from the stocker
change the oil pan
You don't want any of the wiring, the electronic aod, or any of that nonsense from the Mustang. Just need the engine, intake to oil pan. Same with an Explorer, and if you get an Explorer motor you can make some cash by turning the special engine mounts and headers on Ebay to people doing 5.0 Ranger builds.
The only real bind point is the lightning egr spacer. If you go carb, you've lowered the resale value of the car. it also won't pass emissions. Yes I know Florida doesn't have it currently, but no guarantees that will be forever. Quite frankly, its probably more time and money consuming to install a carb than to keep it EFI.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View PostYou don't want any of the wiring, the electronic aod, or any of that nonsense from the Mustang. Just need the engine, intake to oil pan.We all make mistakes.......... That’s why paste is edible!
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Geez Thain... a lil biased to efi? jk
If he goes carb its not that complicated, still much of the same stuff if he went EFI.
In my opinion theres no point to running a mechanical fuel pump anymore. Buy a $60+ mechanical pump, drilling the boss or getting a new timing cover and all that jazz. Or you get an electric for 100 bux, mount it where you want and forget it.
Timing cover can be got from the old motor, as well as accesories and oil pan. Not sure why he needs to change the valve springs unless he changes the cam. I know stock gt40p they like to float above 4800 IIRC. But he can get away for now, just as if he was going efi. Intake, ignition, Carb can be had for dimes... I've got an intake and carb for sale now.
Lets not forget you will need the oil filter do dad relocator thing a ma bob. The way the oil filter is on the sploder motor wont work.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
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who needs mass air? if you're not going to a bigger cam, the speed density works fine. If you are planning on doing a cam, the mustang maf is small, and the wiring harness isn't really useful. Conversion kit is about 30 bucks and can be added to the stock wiring. The ECU is useful, but you do not want an ECU from a car newer than 1993. The pinout is totally different. For a MAF you'd want something off a 94-95 Mustang (70mm) or the 4.6 Tbird MAF also seems to work just fine, its something like 65mm. The Mustang MAF by comparison is about 55mm.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by Mercmarquis View Post
Or you get an electric for 100 bux, mount it where you want and forget it.We all make mistakes.......... That’s why paste is edible!
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Originally posted by Mercmarquis View PostGeez Thain... a lil biased to efi? jk
Not sure why he needs to change the valve springs unless he changes the cam. I know stock gt40p they like to float above 4800 IIRC. But he can get away for now, just as if he was going efi. I
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and the valve float with a stock cam at 4800 is exactly why the springs should be changed. The springs aren't that expensive, and its easier to change them with the motor on a stand vs in the car.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by AudioPro View PostThat was going to be my next question. Do I have to or need to remove the stock fuel pump? and if I remove it, what should I use for a pick up?86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postwho needs mass air? if you're not going to a bigger cam, the speed density works fine.We all make mistakes.......... That’s why paste is edible!
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Postand the valve float with a stock cam at 4800 is exactly why the springs should be changed. The springs aren't that expensive, and its easier to change them with the motor on a stand vs in the car.Last edited by AudioPro; 01-07-2008, 02:21 AM.We all make mistakes.......... That’s why paste is edible!
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Originally posted by gadget73 View PostMustang motors need a different water pump, and maybe a timing cover. Seems hit or miss on that point, depends on the specific motor. .
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Originally posted by HerMajestysMechanic View PostI know its been mentioned a few times, but I can't seem to find a work-around. If you go with the sploder motor and MAF setup.. I know you will loose the cruise.. is this unavoidable? Or can something be done to keep cruise even after the swap?
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