what oil

[torquelover]

I remember using a Bosch filter once. I'm sure it did a great job filtering my oil, but it collapsed when I tried to remove it and I ended up stabbing it with a screwdriver in order to have a way to turn it.

Did you not lube up the o-ring upon installation, Mr.Popeye arms?

[bubbaking]

castrol 10w30 with a fram ph16. we use ALOT of supertech at work since it is cheap and have not heard anyone complain about it yet.

[1987cp]

Did you not lube up the o-ring upon installation, Mr.Popeye arms?

Pretty sure I did, but I'll admit that this was before I reread the oil change instructions and quit using the filter wrench during installation. Hence, any filter with a case much weaker than a K&N Performance Gold had a tendency to be crushed upon removal. :p

[Nathan in MI]

*dopeslaps Michael for installing oil filters with a filter wrench*

[1987cp]

Woohoo!!!

What's a dopeslap?

[Nathan in MI]

Come a little closer and I'll show you...:p

[1987cp]

Eh, no thanks, bud, I don't, er, swing that way.

[Enigma]

interesting article about oil additives from Bob the Oil Guy.

Now on to the filters...
Russ W Knize goes in depth to test oil filters. His complete article can be found here and it's very extensive and has ALOT of reading.

Based on his cutting open filters and taking measurements on these criteria...

Average Retail Price The average of all the retail prices I found for this filter (to the nearest $0.50)
Cartridge Length The length of the filter cartridge, including end caps
Cartridge Outside Diameter The outside diameter of the filter cartridge element pleats
Cartridge Inside Diameter The inside diameter of the filter cartridge inside support tube
Cartridge Pleats The number of pleats (or folds) in the element while in the cartridge
Cartridge End Cap Type The type of material used to construct the end caps
Anti-Drainback Valve Type The valve design and construction material
Bypass Valve Type The valve design and construction material
Element Type The type of material used to construct the filter element and the seam seal
Element Length The overall length of the element when removed from the cartridge and stretched out
Element Width The width of the stretched-out element
Element Surface Area The calculated surface area of the cartridge using the above two values
Shell Thickness The thickness of the metal used to construct the filter's shell
Backplate Thickness The thickness of the metal used to construct the filter's backplate
Gasket Type The type of material used to construct the backplate sealing gasket (O-ring)

He has results on his site of each filter, but reprinting his data here would make this post waaaay long, so I just gathered the "good stuff" to post here.

As is the case with anything these days, many different brands are manufactured by only a few companies...
Manufacturer / Brands
--------------------------------------------------
Champion Labs - AC Delco, Car and Driver, Champ, Deutsch, STP, K&N, Mobil 1
Dana/WIX - Carquest, NAPA, WIX
Honeywell - Fram Extra Guard, Fram Tough Guard, Fram Double Guard, Fram High Mileage, Pennzoil, Quaker State
Purolator - Bosch, Motorcraft, PowerFlo, ProLine, Purolator Premium Plus, Purolator Pure One, Quaker State


Recommended Filters
Based on the simple criteria above and the information I gathered in the Oil Filters Revealed, I have found some filters that are readily available and are of good quality in my opinion. I have disassembled many filters and made observations and measurements on them. Sadly, some of the most common and popular filters don't cut it in my book. Those filters are described in the next section. The filter names are also links to the reference filter page, which gives the intimate details of that filter in the Chrysler/Ford reference filter version. You will find all the hard data for these filters there. What follows are filters that I recommend in alphabetical order:

AMSOIL
The SuperDuty line of filters is no longer being sold by AMSOIL. They now have their "Absolute Efficiency" line of filters that are intended for long duration use along with their premium synthetic oils. The SuperDuty filters had to be changed out at least once between oil changes. From the pictures, they appear to be manufactured by Donaldson. Donaldson manufactures filters mainly for truck applications intended for long duration use. They also manufactured the Hard Driver filter, which I used with great success for several years.

Baldwin
These filters are well constructed and are highly regarded in trucking circles. They don't have as much surface area as some others, but they are one of the best filters you can get for around $5. These are the filters I have been using lately.

Bosch
This used to be another Champion Labs filter sold at Auto Zone, but now it is made by Purolator. It has an impressive surface area and uses a cellulose/synthetic blend media. This should result in well-above average holding capacity. I generally like the Purolator design as well, so I wouldn't hesitate using a Bosch after verifying it was still a Purolator.

Carquest
Like NAPA, they sell two lines of oil filters. One is painted red and the other is painted blue. They are both made by Dana/WIX and the blue one is supposed to be better.

Fram Tough Guard
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there. I personally do not use this filter, but the design didn't have enough bad qualities to cause me to tell others to avoid it.

Hard Driver
This was one of the few oil filters that uses a fully-synthetic filter element with a dual-density layering "depth" media. The construction of the filter is what you would expect from a quality filter with steel filter element caps and special epoxy-coated steel mesh retainers to keep the element from flexing. It also has a good flowing, strong steel case and a zinc-coated backplate to prevent preinstallation corrosion. I used these for a few years with no problems until Donaldson stopped manufacturing them. Donaldson does list part number P169071 in their Endurance line for the same application. This may be a viable substitute for the Hard Driver.

K&N
It's a white Mobil 1 filter with a nut welded to the back. It's made by Champion Labs using what I call their "performance" design instead of the "Ecore". Save the $2-$3 plus shipping and get the Mobil 1.

Mobil 1
This filter is made by Champion Labs using what I call their "performance" design instead of the "Ecore". It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and has a high holding capacity. It is rated by the manufacturer at just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. Given the choice between the Purolator Pure One and the Mobil 1 filters, I would choose the Mobil 1 because of the restriction concerns of the Pure One. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter. I have seen this filter sold at Auto Zone and K-mart and used them a few times, but I feel they are not worth the money in the end.

Though I have never had problems, I had received feedback from a few people back in 1999/2000 that these filters may leak at the base. It seems that the seal between the backplate and can may burst under high pressure (at startup). These were on Ford engine applications.

Motorcraft
The one I opened in 1999 seemed to be a Purolator hybrid. It had the Premium Plus case (anti-drainback valve, gasket, etc), but with what appeared to be a Pure One filter element. This was a cheap way to get a Purolator Pure One. It is sold at many locations including Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc. I have heard from several people that Motorcraft seems to switch between Purolator and Champion Labs as the manufacturer so be observant. The Motorcraft I took apart in 2008 appeared to be a regular Purolator Premium Plus. Not worth the extra couple of bucks anymore in my opinion, but it probably looks snazzy under a Ford hood.

NAPA
They sell two lines of oil filters: NAPA Silver and NAPA Gold. They are both made by Dana/WIX and there is no obvious difference between them. They may have different elements, but NAPA does not state that this is the case.

PowerFlo
This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Murray's Auto Supplies.

ProLine
This is a Purolator Premium Plus that I have seen at Pep Boys. Pep Boys also sells the Purolator Premium Plus brand, which is pretty dumb (to be selling both).

Purolator Premium Plus
The Purolator is a solid design. It seems to have one of the tougher paper filter elements of the low-end filters and the bypass valve is built right into the cartridge. There are no internal sealing problems with this filter at all. There is an assembly string that is wrapped around the filter element, probably to hold it in place while the glue cures in the end caps. In the ProLine (one of the Purolator clones), the string was wrapped too tightly and had damaged the filter element. All the other Purolator-made filters (8 in all) had no trouble, and even the damaged one would probably have been fine. I usually go with these in a pinch or when recommending the cheapest oil filter possible.

Purolator Pure One
This is an interesting filter design made by Purolator. Most of the construction of the Pure One is the same as the Purolator Premium Plus. The big difference is the filter element itself. It has a dense paper/fiber filter element that can filter very small particles. The result of this is cleaner oil exiting the element, but more oil restriction. Purolator addressed this by adding more filter material (more and deeper pleats). After seeing one of these filters cut open, I am apprehensive about this filter. It seems to have so many pleats that it is almost a solid chunk of filter element. It seems like it would end up restricting the flow, more than anything. Purolator has plenty of data on the filtration abilities of this filter and I don't doubt it, but they have no flow data. Even so, I don't see any major problems with this filter. It also sports a silicone anti-drainback valve and a PTFE treated nitrile rubber gasket.

WIX
Another quality oil filter similar in design to the Purolator. It has metal end caps on the filter element, a standard nitrile anti-drainback valve, and a seemingly good flow. They are manufactured by the Dana corporation. These appear to have a depth gradient filter element, which uses cotton fibers to progressively trap smaller particles as they get deeper in the filter. This helps maintain good flow as the filter gets plugged.


Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

AC Delco Duraguard
AC Delco no longer seems to manufacture oil filters. They are now made by Champion Labs using their new "Ecore" design. See that section below for the details.

Champ (Ecore)
Champion Labs touts their new "Ecore" design as a major advancement in oil filter technology. In my humble opinion, they are a major advancement in cost savings for Champion. I have no data to back this up, but that's what fiber end caps and plastic core tubes say to me. I particularly don't like their "patent pending" bypass valve design, which depends on the stamped leaf spring at the back of the filter to regulate the bypass pressure. One unlucky dent in the back of the can knocks it out of whack, assuming it was correct to begin with.

Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. DuPont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

Fram High Mileage
Yet another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram! Gotta love these guys. It's a Fram Extra Guard with a weird goo cartridge suspended on the clean side of the filter, blocking the outlet. It's supposed to be some kind of additive package, but if you want a high mileage oil, buy a high mileage oil. I don't trust these guys...sorry.

Pennzoil
This filter is a Fram. It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

Quaker State
This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Pennzoil...

STP
This is a Champion Labs "Ecore" filter that I have seen at Auto Zone and Walmart.

[Grandmarchris]

Surprise surprise Fram sucks.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Yes, I stopped using Fram for everything once i started hearing about how bad they were on here. Motorcraft for the baby and Purolator for the Grand Am. The Additive study done seems a little off to me. I know the guy mentions all the foamining but I drive or at least let my car warm up plenty before doing an oil change and have not ever seen any sort of foaming. Anyone else seen any?

[1987cp]

I started avoiding Fram after reading that site. I'd always assumed they'd be a good product since it's such a well-known name .... apparently I'd have been quite wrong! :p

[Glen]

I just go to the Ford dealer, $14.95 LOF Ford oil and filter.
I drive a truck and have made pick-ups at the Valvoline plant in Cincinnati. They have stacks of the Super Tech, both reg. and high mileage oil on the floor. So I guess Valvoline makes some of there oil.

[Enigma]

An update on oil, since I now have a fresh brandy new oil pressure gauge.

I noticed that when running Super-Tech 10w40 Oil in my engine, my pressure cold is 50 psi, but when hot at idle, it would go down to between 10-20 psi.

I switched to regular Castrol 10w40, and while the cold pressure is still at 50 psi, when hot at idle, the pressure has not dropped below 25psi.

Anybody else notice pressure differences between oil brands.???

As a little experiment for myself, I think I'm going to try all the different brands, to see what each does for my engine over the next however many oil changes. As of now, I am not sold on Super-Tech at all.

[P72Ford]

I only use one oil, and am unwilling to change at this point.

However, I noticed that when I switched from a Motorcraft filter to a Napa Silver filter, I picked up 4-5 pounds across the board (at idle, WOT, etc).

[ss_mini14]

that just means your filter isnt filtering as efficiently as the old filter. once it starts filtering the smaller particles the pressure will drop. i prefer fram filters because of the coating that allows you to tighten them hand tight without a wrench and they filter well. for oil i use either castrol GTX or valvoline non synthetic. synthetic oils in old engines are a waste when they leak.