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    trans pans with drains, who gots?

    Any of you folks have aftermarket AOD pans with drain plugs? I need one for my car, but I'm concerned about extra width. I need something basically the width dimensions of the stock pan so it doesn't get in the way of my exhaust. Anyone have one? Where did you get it, and how much was it? Any extra fluid capacity ?

    Or, on the cheap, does anyone have experience just punching a hole in a stock AOD pan for one of those B&M drain plug kits? Any problems with it leaking?
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    #2
    I put a drain plug in the stock pan and drove it for about 1000 miles before bbub got parked and had no leaks or problems

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      #3
      I had one on mine. Ford Racing or Generic Summit Chrome pan have them.

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        #4
        I have the chrome FRPP pan. I bought it at Spring Carlisle for $20, new in the box. Since I service the trans frequently, I figured it would take some of the ass ache out of the draining ordeal. No extra capacity. It fits fine, no interference with the exhasut. I know the FRPP cast aluminum deep pan is $$$$. I think new from any retail location (Summit, Jeg's, etc) a deep pan is going to be 100+. You can find deals though, I'm sure of that.

        Can't you use a truck pan? I thought those had more capacity, and would work if you redrilled on hole in the pan (in the rail)? Maybe those are too wide, and maybe I am just saying nonsense, but I thought I've heard that before.

        As far as pucnhing the hole, I thought of that,and I think that'd be fine. They include nylon washers (I think). On the main bolt portion (the piece that the drain plug is actually in; the nut goes on the threads of this to secure the body to the pan), just put some teflon tape on the threads. That and some nylon washers should help. I was thinking of using one to mount a trans temp sensor in.
        **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
        **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
        **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
        **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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          #5
          LPW deep pan here. Like 120 bucks or so from artsperformance.com (corral member)

          I'd thionk the bigger issue with the plug kit is that it will never drain all of the fluid, and all of the crap in the bottom of the pan will never come out. If it's justto drain most of the fluid before dropping the pan, should be fine.
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mrltd View Post
            LPW deep pan here. Like 120 bucks or so from artsperformance.com (corral member)

            I'd thionk the bigger issue with the plug kit is that it will never drain all of the fluid, and all of the crap in the bottom of the pan will never come out. If it's justto drain most of the fluid before dropping the pan, should be fine.
            Thats mostly what its for, less mess. I was figuring if I do the external filter, I can do the pan like every other service, so I'm not dropping the exhaust as often. I know its not the ideal solution, but the external filter should take care of a lot of the crap that ends up in the fluid.

            Thanks for the input guys. I'll see what I can come up with price-wise. Probably it will be either a drain plug in my stock pan, or an aluminum one. Not a big fan of chrome stuff, so far my experience with chromed steel parts is that the metal is far thinner than stock, it tends to leak, and it rusts. If my Ford Racing valve covers are any indication of their trans pans, I'm not touching one.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              When I changed the fluid and filter it was a pain in the ass to take the pan down to drain the fluid. I was wondering whether they did make an aftermarket pan with a plug as well. How mch are the after market pans?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                When I changed the fluid and filter it was a pain in the ass to take the pan down to drain the fluid. I was wondering whether they did make an aftermarket pan with a plug as well. How mch are the after market pans?

                My stamped steel Ford Racing was $20 with a plug.

                Cast aluminum units w/ extra capacity are probably going to be $100+ from Jegs/ Summit. I think its 108 for the cast aluminum Summit with a plug and 1 qt extra cap.
                **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

                Comment


                  #9
                  My last AOD pan swap consisted of the 4x4 AOD pan (the 4x4 AODE pan has the one bolt out of place on the pan rail, however, I have used those also), and a grade 8 nut welded into the pyramid sump in the bottom, to screw a drain plug into.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I used the B&M drain plug/bolt kit for my temp sensor in the pan - it seeps a little but I dont think Ive had to add any trans fluid since I put it in. I bet if i snug it up at the next service it will be ok...
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                    sigpic
                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                      #11
                      Might try adding a wee bit o' teflon tape to the threads, too, Pete...

                      2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
                      1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
                      But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
                        My stamped steel Ford Racing was $20 with a plug.

                        Cast aluminum units w/ extra capacity are probably going to be $100+ from Jegs/ Summit. I think its 108 for the cast aluminum Summit with a plug and 1 qt extra cap.
                        yeah thats about the price, the steel pan is around 28 bucks. Do you have any leakage problems? My Ford Racing steel valve covers are pieces of crap, and they leak annoyingly. I don't want that problem with the transmission.

                        Still considering just drilling my stock pan. I bought one of those drain plug kits a while ago. I'll have to see if I can find it. I'd do the 4x4 pan for the extra fluid capacity, but i don't have one handy, and I don't feel like junkyard digging for one in the cold. I've been meaning to upgrade my factory joke cooler, so that should take care of things. The factory cooler is a 2 pass tube and fin thing. Its maybe half the size of the smallest cooler you can find at most auto parts stores, so it can't be doing a whole bunch.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          thain why are your steel valve covers leaking?
                          as for me I know it's a mess changing the trans fluid. But I don't mind doing it.

                          1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
                          302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
                          k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by gabegt90 View Post
                            thain why are your steel valve covers leaking?
                            because they're thin and crappy. They have basically quit leaking but I have them way tighter than they should need to be. The metal bends and it doesn't get a good seal even with the load spreaders. Probably if I had the really wide ones in the middle, it would help some. The stock valve covers are much thicker, and don't warp like these things do. I have a nice set of aluminum ones to replace these. The chrome is also kind of poor quality, and has gotten hazy from light scratches and stuff. They'd probably be rusting if I didn't clean them regularly, but even with that, they don't look that good.

                            I've never had good luck with chromed anything really. The chrome valve covers on my Beetle pissed oil, the chrome generator pulley cracked in half, the chrome oil drain plate leaked, the chrome covers on the Ford leak, I've had problems with chrome Chevy side bolt valve covers as well. Just seems like most of the time its made from thin metal that doesn't work nearly as well as the ugly stock parts do. It also tends to rust, and i hate rusty chrome.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              do you have to drop any mustang H-pipe to do a filter service, or do you have a special X pipe or something?
                              Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                              'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                              sigpic
                              85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                              Comment

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