Okay Dokie

[gadget73]

probably wouldn't run right with a non-stock cam and the CFI.

[DarkKnight]

Allrighty, then it will half to waight :p

Come to think of it though. car ran great when i bought it, shortly after though that poping crap started Which has preety much been determined that the timing chain poped off track or something. So im actually assuming aside from, the choke. That the CFI, is actually intact :P Which is good imo . If it's not i do smell me buying a carb in the near future hehe.

Im so excited though about all of this. Untill this point of me actually buying the part's it's all been study, trial and error. ect. Now it's coming true. Next time i post hehe, ill have all my part's. Just a matter of time untill i get off before dark.

D.K.

[1987cp]

Carbs FTW!!! Get a 2150 and it'll even bolt onto your existing intake.

[DarkKnight]

guess what?

Carbs FTW!!! Get a 2150 and it'll even bolt onto your existing intake.

Orly? Is that a 4bbl by chance though?


hehe. YUP got all my parts now even got 5qt's of high millage oil and a gallon of anti freeze 50/50

this crap is high i might add ) i had eh. about 400 bucks. and minus 60 bucks for cig's ( two weaks ) ive got like eh. 20 dollars. ugha. hehe


Still need valve cover gaskets and a oil filter. O and some Uhh, ULTRA black, or copper etc.


I have another question though as i approach my finale trip to tearing into this engine hehe. If the bolts break on the water pump or well anything actually. How do i get the bolt out from there.

I know with wood. i would drill that sucker out. but Eh? On steel? ^_^ are there any sp. tools for it. Or is that what the whole tap and dye set is for?

Thanks Mang's for all your support btw

[gadget73]

no, the 2150 is a 2bbl. Only 2 holes in that intake, can't bolt a 4bbl to it.

If the water pump bolt snaps and there is some sticking out, there are special sockets that grab on to broken bolts and will pull them right out. Add some heat from a torch, and it'll come right out. If it breaks off flush, drill and tap it, or worst case, drill and heli-coil it but I doubt that would happen. Usually if they're going to snap there is enough there to get one of those sockets on there.

[torquelover]

Anyone ever use something like this:



I broke an intake manifold bolt but didn't bother with it because I traded the heads in. It went through a water jacket, IIRC.

[gadget73]

yeah those work sometimes if you're careful. penetrating oil and heat to loosen it up, and then usually those will pull it but if you don't do that, without fail the extractor breaks and then you can't drill it out because its hardened steel.

[DarkKnight]

Dang Gadget mang, your scaring the piss outta me. ure saying you half to uhh. Heat the bolts up regardless?


( I think im confused. )

[1987cp]

yeah those work sometimes if you're careful. penetrating oil and heat to loosen it up, and then usually those will pull it but if you don't do that, without fail the extractor breaks and then you can't drill it out because its hardened steel.

Been there, done that. Found out about some goofy guy drinking Budweiser in his garage with his shirt off who got the bolt out, complete with the broken-off screw extractor lodged in the middle of it, and put in a Heli-Coil for 60 bucks after my machinist told me it couldn't be done. Sure beat the heck out of having to find a new block. (yes, this was a front cover/water pump bolt). Unfortunately for you, this guy's in west-central Indiana. :p

If you're worried, I'd suggest trying a little heat on the block where the bolts would thread into it, and definitely make sure to use heat followed by penetrating oil, more than once, if you try a bolt extractor. (I *think* quenching the hot bolt with oil can help it contact quickly and sometimes break it loose or at least give some extra paths for oil to get in around it and do its thing.) And be VERY gentle with the extractor!!! :p

Personally, if I had to do it again, I'd skip the screw extractor and get myself some cobalt or carbide drill bits (or even just really good steel ones) and drill it out. If you go too far out and mess up the threads in the block, it's easier to Heli-Coil it yourself if you don't have a piece of hardened steel screw extractor to dig out of there first.

Oh, and a little tip I should have figured out on my own but didn't: large quantities of duct tape can be helpful for making sure no metal shavings get into the engine of you end up having to drill!

[DarkKnight]

Eh, makes me a skeptic... Humm, But my chances are better of the bolt's actually not breaking you say? And if they do break but have already started coming out theres a Sp. Socket/wrench that will grab it and let it turn?

Cool.

[1987cp]

Irwin (maker of Vise-Grips) does make some nifty sockets for removing rounded-off bolt heads, and that could be used to remove a bolt that broke off above the level of the block; of course, in this instance I think you could just as easily use Vise-Grips

Of course, one thing I forgot to mention was that I was doing just that (using Vise-Grips on an already broken-off bolt) when the darn thing snapped off below the level of the block in the first place. A little heat and PB-Blaster could have easily eliminated the nasty extraction exercise entirely! Heat that sucker till it glows slightly, quench it with oil, and it ought to eventually break free.

[gadget73]

Only time you'd want to use an extractor is if the bolt broke off flush with the block. They're pretty much worthless otherwise, and there are easier ways to get stuff out. The special sockets work well. I have a small hand set from Sears. Scott has a full rack with a bunch of sizes designed to work on a ratchet. They have what looks like reverse threads inside them so as you turn them in the direction to loosen the broken bolt, it will bite down on the bolt section.

The heat will let the rust break free rather nicely. Torches are wonderful tools if used carefully. You can pull rusted on exhaust nuts off with it, stuck bolts, etc.

[1987cp]

Agreed. Bernz-O-Matic TS4000 FTW!!!

[DarkKnight]

arg

well, i was hoping if i got off early today i would be able to put these parts on. But i cant do to flooding rain hehe


Umm, there are a couple of things i dont have yet, due to lack of funds. ( But these wernt on my mandatory list either )

But they are new hoses and a radiator.

Theres no way on earth i can spring for a new radiator atm, But i was wondering if i should go ahead and get the lower radiator hose? Or any other hose for that matter. which would be in any other time hard to put on other then having all this stuff off. hehe


btw, whats the ball park on one of them torches? And where would you get one?

[1987cp]

I got my trigger torch at Wal-Mart for about $40 - my particular kit included a cylinder of Mapp gas, good for light bending, forming, and brazing. They have another model that has an adjustment knob on the back as well.

Have you checked eBay for a radiator? They're like $140-150 new from AutoZone, but the Merc's running one I got used for like $40 from a guy who said he'd run it for two months in his '88 Vic and then the engine blew chunks. I spent $25 more than that just getting all-new hoses! Is your old radiator full of sludge or springing leaks or something? If it's not too bad, just flushing out the cooling system might be more than good enough.

If you can only manage a couple of hoses, I'd probably do the upper and lower radiator hoses and maybe that little 90-degree one that goes to the water neck, as they're the most painful to change out later.