Alright, My distributor O-ring was leaking. So anyway I pull the distributor and switch the O-ring bolt it up and guess what... It won't start. So obviously I fucked up on my markings or something. What can I do if anything to start over? step by step would be nice. Please help, I'm now stranded at a friends house 30 miles from home. God I feel dumb.
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Resident diesel addict -
Easiest way to do it, pull the Number 1 spark plug (that's the front one on the passenger-side bank) and sticking a finger in the hole, carefully crank the engine over with a 15/16" socket until you're certain you feel pressure on your finger. You may feel a little on the exhaust stroke, but you want the compression stroke, and you'll feel more on that stroke. Then look at the harmonic balancer and turn the motor slightly forward or backward till the timing pointer lines up with zero degrees BTDC. Then point the distributor rotor at the number one terminal and plop it in, reinstall the spark plug and wire, and it should start. Reset the base timing to 10 to 14 degrees and you're done!2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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well one way is to pull the spark plug from cylinder # 1, pull the distributor, and have your friend crank the engine, have your finger over where the plug would be. let it go through it's cycle, the biggest rush of air is top dead center, which is needed for the engine to run. once that is done, put the distributor in and set it to # 1 and it should start. turn distributor until you get it running as good as you can get it. Have your friend crank it slowly and yell when you feel the burst of air rush by you. And before you do any of this... check to see whether the iginition wire is unplugged or the TFI module wire is unpluggedComment
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Check your PM box mang.
I doubt it is off more than one or two teeth if you marked it, assuming you marked the position of the rotor button and the distributor. I'd just twist it all the way to one side without pulling it and see if it starts. If it doesn't then try twisting it the other way.
If you have to turn it clockwise to get it to start, then you need to pull the distributor and rotate it one tooth counter clockwise. And vice versa.
Aside from that, you will need to find the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and rotate it to top dead center. The pull the distributor and reinstall it so the rotor points toward the plug wire for cylinder #1
You have a50/50 chance it will start on the first try. If it doesn't redo it so the rotor points in the oposite direction. (180 degrees)
Once you get it to start, then adjust your distributor so it points to the original mark you made and it should be pretty close to where it was before you took it out.Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.
Axle codes
Open/Lock/Ratio #
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G / H / 2.26
B / C / 2.47
8 / M / 2.73
7 / - / 3.07
Y / Z / 3.08
4 / D / 3.42
F / R / 3.45
5 / E / 3.27
6 / W / 3.73
2 / K / 3.55
A / - / 3.63
J / - / 3.85Comment
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alright I have the balancer set on '0' is that where I want it? I was pretty sure of that and then when I messed up I figured it was a 50/50 chance so when I didn't work I moved the distributor 180* and tried it but still nothing. So I dunno whatsup, I just woke up so I'm gonna go mess with it in a bit.
Edit: also the distributor doesn't want to just go straight in, the gear always moves when I put it in it seems.Last edited by FastGallopingPonies; 11-03-2007, 10:46 AM.Resident diesel addictComment
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Yeah, you always have to actually position the distributor rotor a little bit off from where you want it so it slides into the correct position as you put it in.
And yes, "0" on the balancer is correct as long as you're on the compression stroke for cylinder #1. Like 86Vicky and I both mentioned, it's easy to get confused and stop it at zero degrees on the exhaust stroke, which is obviously less than useful. I actually fiddled around trying to get my new 306 to start for the first time for quite a while before I finally rechecked the position of everything and found I had the distributor 180 degrees off.
I'm assuming you're actually getting the rotor pointed where you want it? I always make bloody sure of the position of stuff by setting the cap on the distributor, and making a mark on the outside of the adapter housing (just under the cap) where the No. 1 terminal is. Then I pull the cap back off and transfer that mark to the top/inside of the adapter so I can see it from on top, and do my absolute best to have the rotor lined up with that mark after the distributor goes in.
Another thought is to remove the passenger-side valve cover. When you're on the compression stroke, you'll see the two rocker arms the furthest to the front of the car both in the closed position. I like to make this check whenever it's convenient because I've screwed up with the other method.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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you can move the rotor after the distributor goes in? How?Resident diesel addictComment
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You can't really, but you can effectively move it by twisting the distributor body. That's what really matters, the rotor's position with respect to the body. There's a little notch on the base of the aluminum distributor body that shows you where to position it with respect to the block, but it doesn't have to be lined up with that exactly. The main thing about the exact position of the body is just that it can be turned so it lines up right with the rotor without hitting anything.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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you can't, you want to position the rotor a bit counter-clockwise from where you need it to end up so once the distributor is seated, the rotor ends up in the right spot.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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alright, thanks. Gonna go attack it I guess. Damn cold weather.Resident diesel addictComment
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Totally. Good luck, and if you have more questions, fire away!
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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That's how I normally like to do it, though with an EFI car getting that valve cover off might be a bit of a project (doesn't the intake manifold extend over the top of that valve cover?). Just watch the valves on number one cylinder...turn the engine till you see the exhaust valve cycle, immediately followed by the intake valve, and then go one more turn.Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
The finger-over-the-plug-hole trick will certainly work, and is probably more practical for your application, but it's a bit more approximate in my opinion.
Either way, once you get the hang of it, it's not at all hard to get the engine running. You got a timing light so you can get it set right afterwards?
2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8Comment
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First thing you do is set the dampener at 10 BTDC with a socket and ratchet. Set the distributor in with the rotor pointing at #1 after it rotates while you install it. IF the oil drive shaft isn't aligned up so that the distributor seats, no big deal. Just bump the motor over until it drops down then bump it over again until the rotor points at #1 again. Don't crank it over with a socket, bump the starter at the solenoid. Now, turn the motor over at the solenoid with your finger over the #1 cylinder hole. The larger push should be when the rotor passes the #1 wire. If it is 180 off, pull the distributor and rotate the crank 360 degrees to point at 10 BTDC. The motor should now start.
The most exact way to set the rotor at the #1 cylinder is to drill a hole in an old distributor cap at the #1 wire post. You can see the rotor position thru the hole in the cap.Last edited by Mercracer; 11-03-2007, 01:04 PM.Comment
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I assume using the solenoid to crank the engine over makes it easier to discern between the two puffs of air? I've actually never tried it that way ... a little paranoid about having a hand on something that's being turned by a big motor, I guess.Originally posted by Mercracer View Post2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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