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i know advance auto parts has them in the help section.....they are not cheap
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
ditto that - I assume you mean the kind that slide over and lock with a plastic clip like on the fuel pump? I've determined that the easiest solution there is to use a compression fitting and a barb adapter and kind of sidestep the problem that way.
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
dont any of you guys know how to do a double flare?
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
I do, but doing large steel lines with the tools I've got is a dicey process, so I've started avoiding it when possible. I've read about a much nicer type of double-flaring tool that's basically a block of metal (or rather, two blocks that bolt together) with an integral machined mandrel that would work a lot better than the regular-flaring-tool-with-auxiliary-mandrels version I've used - but it appears based on my limited research to be next to impossible to find. I would *assume* that aluminum line is quite a bit easier to work with, but the stock lines as well as the stuff that's easily available from the usual parts-store locations is kind of made of steel!
(Edit: this here is sort of similar to what I was thinking of, but probably a good deal nicer.)
What do you usually do for consistent double-flares, especially on stuff larger than 5/16"?
ooh that's fancy.....bulky tho.....i got the little handheld dealio and strong hands i guess......maybe i should come out of the 50's hehe.....just no compression fittings on brake lines please
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
Yeah, I don't usually have too much trouble turning the expander thing, it's the fact that the tubes usually slide out of the bar thing and don't flare at all, or else get cockeyed and make a bad flare that I then have to cut off and start over. Maybe a proper deburring tool would help quality when a flare happens, but I've used three different tools with no luck with the sliding-out part. Maybe I should try filing down the mating faces of the bar parts in hopes that they can clamp tubes more firmly?
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
i dont know of any spring lock connectors on the frame.....the ones on the frame use a little horseshoe shaped retaining clip
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
hm then, not sure if I've seen those. Worst case, you could always whack the springlock off the line on the engine, and use high pressure rubber fuel line to connect the steel line on the frame to the line on the engine. If you do, just make sure you use the clamps designed for efi fuel line. They're designed to clamp evenly and not pinch like the worm drive jobbers do.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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