Phayzer, you mean a metering block, you can't put a power valve in a metering plate. And how is it blocked off, do you have a solid plug in it or there's just no hole you could put a power valve in?
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sounds to me that your uncle wants to suck more money out of your pocket. you probaly his only customer since he started his own garage.
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Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View PostPhayzer, you mean a metering block, you can't put a power valve in a metering plate. And how is it blocked off, do you have a solid plug in it or there's just no hole you could put a power valve in?
Its a powervalve with no valve, its blank, cast over center section, nothing can get through itLast edited by phayzer5; 10-18-2007, 09:45 PM.
RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro
'80 Town Coupé
'84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
'16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4
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Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View PostWell there is a difference, with the plates you can't change jets and such, so probably not too good for high-performance application. But yeah, yer carb goes with what I was saying about new carbs and and primary valves only. Anyhow.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro
'80 Town Coupé
'84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
'16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4
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Originally posted by phayzer5 View Post
Seriously Colin, in my life I get subtle hints, from my Guardian Angel, if you will. Do you think that the carb coming in wrong is a sign? AFAIK, this is also your DD/winter car. Maybe best to keep the old carb, with vacuum secondaries and electric choke, and spend the money on tuning and some dyno runs. If you send the carb back, might want to spend the money on a wideband O2 sensor and gauge setup so that you have an idea of what's going on. And I must bring this up again, since I don't think you ever answered it before: besides what your Uncle said about night/day differences, what is wrong with the old carb?
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we dont have these efi conversations, cause they just work right
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Originally posted by lincolnmania View Postwe dont have these efi conversations, cause they just work right
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Dave, if you really think that a Vac. secondary carb like what I have is going to work better than the mechanical DP I got now...I will ship this one back and get the right one.
from what I understand...it seems like Mechanical DPs are meant mostly for Manual Trans and Vac. secondaries work better for Automatics.
but can we get a vac. secondary carb to open it's secondaries nearly as quick as a Mechanical DP?
if you know that a Vac. secondary carb can get me the numbers I need and work every bit as good as a Mech. secondary, I'll do it.Last edited by Mr. Land Yacht; 10-19-2007, 03:57 PM.sigpic
1989 Ford Crown Victoria
99K
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Originally posted by Mr. Land Yacht View Postbut can we get a vac. secondary carb to open it's secondaries nearly as quick as a Mechanical DP?
if you know that a Vac. secondary carb can get me the numbers I need and work every bit as good as a Mech. secondary, I'll do it.
Here's a quick-change cap for the secondary springs (I'm assuming it fits your carb):
And I expect you'll need one of these spring kits:
Keep in mind that I'm not a Holley guy, but I'm pretty sure that'll provide you with all the adjustment you need in terms of when the secondaries open. The procedure I remember reading in Car Craft was basically, floor the gas and make a run, and if you notice a bog when the secondaries open, change the spring. If the bog gets worse, you went the wrong way (i.e. one step heavier when you needed one step lighter). Holley guys check me on this, though.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by Mr. Land Yacht View PostDave, if you really think that a Vac. secondary carb like what I have is going to work better than the mechanical DP I got now...I will ship this one back and get the right one.
from what I understand...it seems like Mechanical DPs are meant mostly for Manual Trans and Vac. secondaries work better for Automatics.
but can we get a vac. secondary carb to open it's secondaries nearly as quick as a Mechanical DP?
if you know that a Vac. secondary carb can get me the numbers I need and work every bit as good as a Mech. secondary, I'll do it.Scars are tatoos of the fearless
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