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    Phayzer, you mean a metering block, you can't put a power valve in a metering plate. And how is it blocked off, do you have a solid plug in it or there's just no hole you could put a power valve in?

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      sounds to me that your uncle wants to suck more money out of your pocket. you probaly his only customer since he started his own garage.
      sigpic
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2681604 --- http://www.supermotors.net/17596

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        Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
        Phayzer, you mean a metering block, you can't put a power valve in a metering plate. And how is it blocked off, do you have a solid plug in it or there's just no hole you could put a power valve in?
        whatever the fuck you wanna call it

        Its a powervalve with no valve, its blank, cast over center section, nothing can get through it
        Last edited by phayzer5; 10-18-2007, 09:45 PM.

        RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

        '80 Town Coupé
        '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
        '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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          Well there is a difference, with the plates you can't change jets and such, so probably not too good for high-performance application. But yeah, yer carb goes with what I was saying about new carbs and and primary valves only. Anyhow.

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            Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
            Well there is a difference, with the plates you can't change jets and such, so probably not too good for high-performance application. But yeah, yer carb goes with what I was saying about new carbs and and primary valves only. Anyhow.
            There are differant plates just like different jets. The numbers dont corespond to the jet sizes though there kina random so you need a Holley book to find the jet size. I have collected a few over the years. Have lots of jets though as used in metrering blocks. The work as well for performance as the jets do but are not as easy to change. In some situations such as my dual quad setup the metering blocks add too much length to the carb to fit on the manifold so the plates work.
            Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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              Aaaah Good ol Carb discusion....
              YouTube. FaceBook Crown Vic Group

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                RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                '80 Town Coupé
                '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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                  That's a lot of Mentos you got there!

                  Seriously Colin, in my life I get subtle hints, from my Guardian Angel, if you will. Do you think that the carb coming in wrong is a sign? AFAIK, this is also your DD/winter car. Maybe best to keep the old carb, with vacuum secondaries and electric choke, and spend the money on tuning and some dyno runs. If you send the carb back, might want to spend the money on a wideband O2 sensor and gauge setup so that you have an idea of what's going on. And I must bring this up again, since I don't think you ever answered it before: besides what your Uncle said about night/day differences, what is wrong with the old carb?

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                    we dont have these efi conversations, cause they just work right

                    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                      Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                      we dont have these efi conversations, cause they just work right
                      Suuure, wanna tell that to my Townie next time she decides to idle at 2k after driving in high-humidity weather? Actually she probably won't do it no more cause I pulled the plug off the IAC, but if tis hooked up that's what happens, all the time every time - hell if I know what's up with it, but disconnecting and readjusting it carb-style is cheaper than fixing/replacing whatever's acting up. [/offtopic]

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                        mmm....Mentos sounds good.
                        sigpic
                        1989 Ford Crown Victoria
                        99K

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                          Dave, if you really think that a Vac. secondary carb like what I have is going to work better than the mechanical DP I got now...I will ship this one back and get the right one.
                          from what I understand...it seems like Mechanical DPs are meant mostly for Manual Trans and Vac. secondaries work better for Automatics.

                          but can we get a vac. secondary carb to open it's secondaries nearly as quick as a Mechanical DP?

                          if you know that a Vac. secondary carb can get me the numbers I need and work every bit as good as a Mech. secondary, I'll do it.
                          Last edited by Mr. Land Yacht; 10-19-2007, 03:57 PM.
                          sigpic
                          1989 Ford Crown Victoria
                          99K

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                            Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                            we dont have these efi conversations, cause they just work right

                            I have seen somme realy hot FI discussions some led to carb installs some to very expensive fi mods some to simple stuff.
                            Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Mr. Land Yacht View Post
                              but can we get a vac. secondary carb to open it's secondaries nearly as quick as a Mechanical DP?

                              if you know that a Vac. secondary carb can get me the numbers I need and work every bit as good as a Mech. secondary, I'll do it.
                              Not sure about being as quick to slam all four barrels open instantly, but do you really want that at 2,000 rpm (your converter stall speed)?

                              Here's a quick-change cap for the secondary springs (I'm assuming it fits your carb):


                              And I expect you'll need one of these spring kits:



                              Keep in mind that I'm not a Holley guy, but I'm pretty sure that'll provide you with all the adjustment you need in terms of when the secondaries open. The procedure I remember reading in Car Craft was basically, floor the gas and make a run, and if you notice a bog when the secondaries open, change the spring. If the bog gets worse, you went the wrong way (i.e. one step heavier when you needed one step lighter). Holley guys check me on this, though.
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                                Originally posted by Mr. Land Yacht View Post
                                Dave, if you really think that a Vac. secondary carb like what I have is going to work better than the mechanical DP I got now...I will ship this one back and get the right one.
                                from what I understand...it seems like Mechanical DPs are meant mostly for Manual Trans and Vac. secondaries work better for Automatics.

                                but can we get a vac. secondary carb to open it's secondaries nearly as quick as a Mechanical DP?

                                if you know that a Vac. secondary carb can get me the numbers I need and work every bit as good as a Mech. secondary, I'll do it.
                                Yes a vacuum secondary cab can do as well as a mechanical. In cases like yours prob better. They work best in heavy cars with small engines were more low end torq is required. They work better in situations were economy is desired. They work better in top speed situation since a bigger vacuum secondary carb can be used and dialed in for low speed as well.
                                Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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