Was Fine before I fixed it.

[00600]

Maybe there's just too much slack it it and it's not opening in proportion to the fuel flow.

Slack in the cable won't cause a problem like that.


The TPS and MAP control the fuel flow, the TPS is splined to the TB butterfly shaft.

The TPS has 3 wires;

5V+ reference
Output signal
Ground

Using a DVOM you can backprobe the plug, look for the wire that has a rising voltage (.5V-5V) that increases with throttle opening.

The signal should be around .4V-.8V @ idle and 4.5V-5V @ WOT.

Check the make sure the voltage rises smoothly by slowly opening the throttle by hand, any "dead spots" or extreme changes in voltage will cause a problem.

The MAP sensor works basically the same way, only if varies the voltage in relation to manifold pressure.

It's factory calibrated, I can't remember the MAP-V relation off the top of my head. But if the TPS checks out, lemme know and I'll pull out my Ford EFI manuals.

You should also check the O2 sensors. What year is your car?

Also, check to make sure the reference vac line is on the FPR.

[Wolfeyes88]

My cars an '89 just to get that out there.

I pinpointed when and under what conditions I'm having problems. Whenever the car gets hot enough to open up the thermostat, thats when it starts acting up. I'm starting to think maybe the EGR spacer cracked and it's sucking water into the intake. I don't know how that could have happened though. Could also be a bad gasket. The gasket could have blown when I but the pressure tester on it. When the weather clears I'm gonna check all that out.

I'm trying to firmly eliminate all the simple, minor and realativly inexpensive stuff before I start messing around with the more expensive stuff. I've found that it's usually the simple things that go. I've already replaced plenty of expensive things only to find out it was a bad gasket, or a split hose, or a loose fitting.

[00600]

So it runs fine when it's cold, but like crap when it warms up?

[Wolfeyes88]

Yup thats the story. Runs fine right up until the thermostat pops. Then if I'm sitting at a red light I gotta keep my foot on the throttle and the break to keep her running. Sounds just like she's sucking water, even when it's bone dry outside. I'm seriously starting to think theres a major leak somewhere inside. If I had more gas in it I would let it idle until it warmed up and check everything out, but I need what little gas I have to get into work.

When the problems starts, theres clear to grey steam, not smoke but steam comming out of the exhaust, and when it runs for a while it condenses in the bend above the rear end and you can see it drip out. It's like I'm running a still in the engine bay. That would be cool though, a v8 powered still.

Now watch, tomorrow, this problem will disappear and a new one will pop up, then it'll be relaced with another problem, then this one will come back. My car is Bi-Polar.

[00600]

ugh, that doesn't sound good. what does the oil look like?

Did you have the lower intake off?

White smoke = water, either condensation in the air, coolant leaking through the intake manifold, cracked head/blown head gasket, or cracked cylinder (last two highly unlikely).

If it's leaking internally, then it will heat up rather quickly maybe even overheat. You can also check the coolant level. If it's low then it's going SOMEWHERE, also check for air bubbles (blown head gasket).

Oil that looks like a milk shake = blown head gasket.

It could also be a leak in the vac line to the MAP sensor, mis adjusted TPS, or bad O2 sensor (it will run off the fuel map until it warms up and goes into closed loop.