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Smog Pump-A/C Delete Questions

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    #16
    Yep, as long as there ain't no open vacuum ports you're good.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
      I’m in the process of installing a water pump on the ’88. After I got into it, I realized that this would be an ideal time to remove the non-functional A/C and smog pump. I’ve got two questions:

      1.) Where do you mount the coil that was originally mounted to the A/C compressor bracket?
      2.) There is a vacuum line to the cruise servo that goes to the smog pump. I would like to keep cruise control functional. Where can I hook back into engine vacuum? I’ll look at the distribution block on the firewall to see if there is anywhere.


      Thanks for the input. I'd like to get this back together tonight!
      Mine's mounted on the inner fender by the starter solenoid. but every other year I've seen has it where you have it.

      That hose is just recieving air. It's not important, cap it off at the t.
      Last edited by 86VickyLX; 10-06-2007, 08:47 PM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
        I've had codes for inoperative thermactor, both right and left sides before I pulled the crap off. I'm not too concerned with it being pretty under the hood, so I should still be okay with the two lines plugged? I may straighten it up a little later if I decide to keep the car.

        It was the 2-wire temp sensor and I replaced it with the one from my '87 for now.
        They aren't important codes, they're from the smog pump.

        The thing you broke is the ECT. And it controls all the shit that is temperature sensitive. If you don't have that, the car will not run right.

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          #19
          Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
          Mine's mounted on the inner fender by the starter solenoid. but every other year I've seen has it where you have it.
          \.
          1986 only.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #20
            Ok I am doing this tomorrow. So what about the EGR system? It seems to have alot of piping around this area, is it ok to gut this stuff or what since I am installing headers at this time also so if I dont get rid of some of this hose crap it will rub on my headers.
            2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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              #21
              EGR has 2 lines. one to feed vacuum to the solenoid, one thqat goes from solenoid to EGR valve.

              All other stuff is the air pump crap
              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                #22
                Alrighty thanks, that is what I needed.
                2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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                  #23
                  If in doubt, trace.
                  Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                  Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                    #24
                    Ok I got it all out except this one pipe. It is in the pic below, it is the pipe below the heater hose. What do I do just cut it out or what cause it runs behind the engine.
                    2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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                      #25
                      Unbolt it from the back of the heads,and plug the remaining 2 holes on the back of the heads with 5/8 bolts,you'll have to cut the bolts down as well to about 1/2in in order for them to fully seat.
                      Last edited by LTDMan83; 10-20-2007, 06:10 PM.

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                        #26
                        Or,you could also cut the 2 end pieces off the pipe,(the part that seats over the holes in the heads),turn them around backwards and bolt them back down with the stock bolt,to cover the holes.Doesn't seal as well as the Bolts,but it will do for awhile until you find the right size bolts.
                        Last edited by LTDMan83; 10-20-2007, 06:12 PM.

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                          #27
                          What Custom87 said is entirely correct! I have bolts in my heads, but they stick out cause they're 1" long, they still seal well, juts looks ugly

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                            #28
                            Awesome, thanks Custom.
                            2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"

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                              #29
                              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...=A.I.R+removal This is what got me through my AIR system removal
                              sigpicVic Videos Here http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...676#post243676
                              Vic's Reader's Rides Page http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16917
                              Vic's Cardomain page http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2532949
                              1975 Chevy C-10 Cardomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3371894

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