Smog Pump-A/C Delete Questions

[Tiggie]

I’m in the process of installing a water pump on the ’88. After I got into it, I realized that this would be an ideal time to remove the non-functional A/C and smog pump. I’ve got two questions:

1.) Where do you mount the coil that was originally mounted to the A/C compressor bracket?
2.) There is a vacuum line to the cruise servo that goes to the smog pump. I would like to keep cruise control functional. Where can I hook back into engine vacuum? I’ll look at the distribution block on the firewall to see if there is anywhere.


Thanks for the input. I'd like to get this back together tonight!

[85crownHPP]

put the coil anywhere you like... order plug wires for an 86 if you want the one long coil wire to reach the fender. The smog pump vac line should go into the vac tree or a divider just off of it. Just cap it off.

[Archangel]

I moved my coil over to the driver side inner fender, my FRPP wires set already had a long coil wire (tis a 351 kit IIRC) so I only needed to extend the two power leads for the coil. I did have to add a ground to it, but that ain't a big deal either.

The vacuum line gets pulled of the T-ee 1-way valve by the cruise and the port gets capped, alternatively you can simply replace said T-ee 1-way valve with a regular straight 1-way valve, which would be what I did as I hate unused ports.

[Tiggie]

I think I will move my coil over to the drivers side fender well, and I already have the long wire because my Accel wires came with it (very glad I didn't throw it away).

The vacuum line gets pulled of the T-ee 1-way valve by the cruise and the port gets capped, alternatively you can simply replace said T-ee 1-way valve with a regular straight 1-way valve, which would be what I did as I hate unused ports.

Will the cruise still work? I don't another supply line, but I could have overlooked it. I'll look again after I eat supper.

[gadget73]

Cruise will work, its got a vacuum source from the tree on the firewall, goes into a T near the wiper motor. From the T, one leg goes to the cruise servo, one goes to the smog pump. If you look in the line between the T and the smog pump, you should find a one-way check valve. Use that to replace the T, and you're good to go. Mine is bypassed that way, cruise works great.

[Archangel]

Cruise will work, its got a vacuum source from the tree on the firewall, goes into a T near the wiper motor. From the T, one leg goes to the cruise servo, one goes to the smog pump. If you look in the line between the T and the smog pump, you should find a one-way check valve. Use that to replace the T, and you're good to go. Mine is bypassed that way, cruise works great.

Exactly, that's just what I did too, cruise works here too.

[gadget73]

I actually have rather large pictures of the stock vacuum plumbing if anyone wants them.

[Tiggie]

Thanks guys. I got her all de-smogged now. And it sounds so much better without the air pump crying all the time!

I moved the coil over to the drivers side fender well, and I had just enough wiring that I didn't have to extend the harness .

I left the hose with the check valve on it that used to go to the smog pump. I removed the hose after the check valve and ran it down the drivers side fender well, ending up under the windshield washer reservoir. I fix it up like yall recommended after I get it inspected (and hopefully the guy won't look under the hood). I also left the crossover tube on the back of the cylinder heads.

I only had two vacuum lines to plug, both of which had gone to some kind of diverter valves on the smog stuff. It is okay to just plug these, correct?

[Tiggie]

Oh yeah, forgot to add that I broke some kind of temperature sensor thing near the thermostat on the adaptor coming out of the intake manifold to a heater hose. What is this sensor? For now, I'm stealing one off my parts car.

[Archangel]

The temp sensor in the steel pipe coming off the intake is for yer temp gauge. There's another one too, tis screwed in the lower intake and tis for the ECM - if that one goes bad or gets damaged the car will act funky.

As far as vacuum lines go I just ran a line from the manifold tree to the EVR, and then another one from the EVR to the EGR near the throttle body, you can T-ee in the small vacuum canister bevore the EVR if you want to, but I don't think it's entirely necessary. To clean it all up remove all the plastic vacuum lines associated with the two solenoidsid near the EVR, and you can also relocate said solenoids to somewhere you can't see them easily - as long as their harnesses don't get disconnected you won't see codes at the ECM.

[gadget73]

Actually the one in the pipe is for the ECM, the one in the lower intake is the idiot light or temp gauge sender. Single wire = gauge/light, 2 wire = ecm. If its the 2 wire sensor, yes its very important.

[zwack88]

Here is a retarded question, where do you get plugs and caps to cap off the vac lines? Do parts stores sell them or do you guys just use like tape or something?

[85crownHPP]

yes you can buy assorted vacuum nipple caps

[Tiggie]

I've had codes for inoperative thermactor, both right and left sides before I pulled the crap off. I'm not too concerned with it being pretty under the hood, so I should still be okay with the two lines plugged? I may straighten it up a little later if I decide to keep the car.

It was the 2-wire temp sensor and I replaced it with the one from my '87 for now.

[gadget73]

yeah just cut the lines back and cap them. Other option is to simply disconnect the red line where it connects from the top solenoid (egr) down to the lower 2 solenoids. There is a one-way check valve. Pull that and stick a cap on the valve, no more vacuum leak problems.