351 Block - To good to be true?

[nitroracer]

I found what I think is a good local deal on eBay for a 351 block, looking for some opinions on it. I have my heads, intake, and carb for the top end, have yet to buy a cam and lifters. I have a good crank about to be cut .010/.010 and good rods.

It looks like the seller is a shop, but I would want a report with the engine so I know what was done to this one but I fear if it is a shop they could just fake it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-351-Windsor-finished-bare-block_W0QQitemZ200156391144QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200156391144

[Archangel]

Is that thing drilled and tapped for roller lifters spider? Also it looks like they installed brass freeze plugs.

[DuceAnAHalf]

Is that thing drilled and tapped for roller lifters spider? Also it looks like they installed brass freeze plugs.

no it is not, the part number is for an 84. it does not have the bosses that would be drilled.

that is not too good to be true. we got a fresh machined .030" over 351 block for free.

[turbo2256b]

I got a complete 351 never bored, performer intake holley carb, "powerd by ford" valve covers, ran when removed for 550.00.

[Pirate]

I am not a big fan of buying an already-bored block. I would prefer having a block bored to match the pistons being used....but if it's cheap...

[Mercracer]

Pass on that one. Like Pirate said, you need to hone to the size of your pistons. Running a forged piston vs std aluminum cast vs a hypereutectic alloy cast all require different cylinder to piston clearances. Find a local block and look for a F4TE preferrably.

[turbo2256b]

If it is done properly each piston is fitted to its bore numbered and sould not be switched

[1987cp]

Especially if it's close enough you could just pick it up, I'd put a couple bids on it to try to figure out where the other guy's max bid is. Could be pretty high for all we know.

[nitroracer]

The reason I was looking into it is I have a block, crank, and rods from an 87' Bronco sitting at a shop now, all cleaned up and magged ready to take to the next step. But If I could buy that block I think I'd get a better deal. The shop wants $1048 for the machine work alone. Resurfacing, align honed mains, studded mains, cam bearings, freeze plugs, reconditioned rods with new bolts, crank turned .010/.010, and .030 over bore. That sound high? More work than I need done for a non-race engine?

Right now I'm at $180 for the cleaning and magging.

[1987cp]

That could probably be worse, at least compared to what I've paid. My last machine-shop bill for engine work came to somewhere around $700, maybe $800 or so, including the standard block prep service, boring the block .030, cutting the crank .010/.010, fitting new pistons, and reconditioning the heads. I didn't even ask about align-honing - it evidently turned out not to be necessary on my core. Torque-plate honing would have been a little extra, but installing new rod bolts probably would not have been extra since the rod ends are resized anyway. I also didn't know machining was required to run main studs, but I've yet to mess with studs.

I've definitely read that springing for extra services like balancing and torque-plate honing, while not really necessary for a service rebuild, can make for a very long-lasting engine once assembled and installed in the car.

[gadget73]

wow, over a grand just for machine work? Heck I got my 302 done with a .020 over bore. .010/.010 on the crank, and the engine kit for like $750. Mind you I didn't get new rod bolts, just had the rods re-sized. No studs on the main bearings either, just standard bolts.

[nitroracer]

Thats why I'm looking around. I can probably get a full re-man engine for $1200. But I'll only be ripping off the heads, intake, cam, etc.

[turbo2256b]

most engines dont require resufacing or align hone.

[turbo2256b]

I could raise my price to 1200 if it would make you feel better.

[nitroracer]

Dude, why do you have to be such a friggen salesman all the time?!