Epi, that's why Johny said you switch everything out - Mustangs use one longass belt, Panthers use two short ones. I will be using one short belt only cause I don't need the one that runs the A/C
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Underdrive Pulley a MUST HAVE for HOs
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Originally posted by 88grandmarq View PostUslydawg (Bob) documented a .2 improvement on his car just from the pulley.
Also, I just remembered something. I thought the most important reason for the underdrive crank pulley was not to spin the snot out of the water pump and start blowing green stuff everywhere. Mightn't it be simpler to use an underdriven water pump pulley instead, or is also important that the alternator not be spun too fast with the engine at 5000-5500rpm?2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Working with half my brain tied behind my back just to make it fair
- Sep 2011
- 7373
- Big Rapids, MI
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Originally posted by 1987cp View PostWhat was done to the car before the pulley swap?
Also, I just remembered something. I thought the most important reason for the underdrive crank pulley was not to spin the snot out of the water pump and start blowing green stuff everywhere. Mightn't it be simpler to use an underdriven water pump pulley instead, or is also important that the alternator not be spun too fast with the engine at 5000-5500rpm?
You mean an overdriven water pump pulley.
Problem with doing that, other than needing to slow down all the accessories, as Blaze pointed out, is that the water pump pulley and the crank pulley run awfully close to each other as it is, so putting a pulley on there that's much bigger than stock would be pretty difficult.
2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8
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Just means the alternator is currently running slower than stock, which is fine as long as it's spinning fast enough to charge the battery. The speed ratio is the inverse of the ratio of the pulleys' diameters.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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what mike said, I wouldn't be too concerned about it, most alternators are designed to produce max charge when engine runs at about 2000rpms anyways. Also dunno if you know, but 3G alternators have larger pulleys than most 2G, when I was installing mine I swapped pulleys cause I usually keep the rpms down low during cruise
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I'd like to see some pics of the install... any noticable power difference?
I have mine in my garage... waiting to get an HO before I even start to screw with it. I believe mine is Hawk brand though.1984 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murphmobile (RIP)
1985 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murph Deuce (SOLD)
1978 Chevrolet Caprice Classic, The Crapiece (current project)
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No pics so far, I might go take some but I dunno.
As far as power...before I could spin the rear tires even if I punched it while already in gear from a 15mph roll. Now, 1st is truly a useless gear. If I have the car in first gear, driving at any constant speed, and I push the pedal, it's all wheel spin to 35mph period, in any place, any location, any surface, and thats with the 275 tires on it.
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Slight thread digging. I installed mine over the weekend (well, technically Scott did but lets not quibble ) and after much other assorted bs, I finally got it all together. Its definitely got a noticeable power increase. I'm hoping the underdrive will stop the exploding water pump problems I've been plagued with since I got this car. I put lucky #4 since April 2005 on this weekend.
Belts: Used a 48 1/2" (5060485) on the alternator side, and a 53 3/4" (5060538) on the AC side. I have no smog pump, just the tensioner. For those of you running a smog pump still, on the Boulevard Cruiser, the belt of choice was a 57 5/8" belt.
The alternator side really could stand to be a little longer. A 49-49 1/2" would have been excellent, but there is no spoon. I might have to try swapping on a smaller pulley off the stock alternator to get some more clearance, installing that tight belt with the 3g is a pain in the rear since the alt won't swing over quite as far as the stock one. The AC side could have been a smidge shorter, probably a 53 1/4 would have given me a bit more between the tensioner and the back side of the belt, but I had to work with available parts. One other plus of this, the AC belt no longer rubs on the water pump. In stock form, the way I had the tensioner set, the belt lightly rubbed the water pump snout, just enough to wear all the markings off the belt and make a shiny spot on the pump body.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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seems fine. No negatives that I can come up with, but it did take a little running around to get the right belts. Once I got that sorted out, its all peaches and cucumbers and lollypops and such. The alternator belt could stand to be longer but I made do with the parts I could get. I don't have any charging problems either, but I do have a 130 amp alternator. Not sure how well it would do with a 65.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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