I stumbled on this idea a few years ago but haven't had the chance to do more than toy with it. Lately I have noticed several people dicsussing the duraspark boxes. There is nothing wrong with them as far as I am concerned. However for those of us who are planning to switch to carbs, want to do so for at least few common reasons.
#1 It is easier to build power and maintain.
#2 It is quite a bit less expensive to build and maintain.
#3 We want the engine compartment to be as neat and free of excess clutter as possible.
Why then should we install a relatively complex, clunky and slightly more expensive ignition module?
DISCLAIMER, I am not advocating that this mod is for everyone, but throwing it out there as another option, and explaining my reasons for doing so.
Ok here we go.
One of the simplest, cheapest, and arguably most durable ignition modules out there is the one for early 80's chrysler products. Let me start off by saying this isn't the best plan for a drag car or anything that is going to be turning 5500rpm+ on a regular basis, because the dwell on these isn't long enough for high rpm's. But it will work just fine for a mild performance build, and it's cheap too. Also these things will handle a pretty high current, so using them with a hotter coil is no problem. (within reason of course) I looked up the specs for the big power transistor mounted on the front of one once, and it was rated for around 16 amps continous iirc. That is a heck of a lot current for a coil.
They work fine with every distributor pickup coil I have had the chance to test them with. (ford included)
Here it is in all its glory... um ok, maybe not glory.
And a side view, btw this one is on ebay for $10
A wirning harness can be snagged from just about any late 70's -mid 80's crhysler/plymouth/dodge product at a junkyard. If you grab the ign module at the same time, make sure it is the model with 4 pins. The 5 pin model is ok too, but it takes a second ballast resistor to work right. If you buy the module new at vatozone just ask for one from an 83 dodge truck with a 318 v8. Vato zone has them new with a lifetime warranty for $23.00
Here is the wiring diagram
Doesn't get much simpler than this folks unless you want to use points.
Any questions? Comments? etc?
P.S. I can't take credit for dreaming this one up, I got it from www.gofastforless.com a few years ago. The site is small, but there is some pretty decent reading over there.
#1 It is easier to build power and maintain.
#2 It is quite a bit less expensive to build and maintain.
#3 We want the engine compartment to be as neat and free of excess clutter as possible.
Why then should we install a relatively complex, clunky and slightly more expensive ignition module?
DISCLAIMER, I am not advocating that this mod is for everyone, but throwing it out there as another option, and explaining my reasons for doing so.
Ok here we go.
One of the simplest, cheapest, and arguably most durable ignition modules out there is the one for early 80's chrysler products. Let me start off by saying this isn't the best plan for a drag car or anything that is going to be turning 5500rpm+ on a regular basis, because the dwell on these isn't long enough for high rpm's. But it will work just fine for a mild performance build, and it's cheap too. Also these things will handle a pretty high current, so using them with a hotter coil is no problem. (within reason of course) I looked up the specs for the big power transistor mounted on the front of one once, and it was rated for around 16 amps continous iirc. That is a heck of a lot current for a coil.
They work fine with every distributor pickup coil I have had the chance to test them with. (ford included)
Here it is in all its glory... um ok, maybe not glory.
And a side view, btw this one is on ebay for $10
A wirning harness can be snagged from just about any late 70's -mid 80's crhysler/plymouth/dodge product at a junkyard. If you grab the ign module at the same time, make sure it is the model with 4 pins. The 5 pin model is ok too, but it takes a second ballast resistor to work right. If you buy the module new at vatozone just ask for one from an 83 dodge truck with a 318 v8. Vato zone has them new with a lifetime warranty for $23.00
Here is the wiring diagram
Doesn't get much simpler than this folks unless you want to use points.
Any questions? Comments? etc?
P.S. I can't take credit for dreaming this one up, I got it from www.gofastforless.com a few years ago. The site is small, but there is some pretty decent reading over there.
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