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Dirt cheap and super simple electronic ignition

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    #16
    and I was thinking of putting something newer on the 2.6 ....the 2.8 is getting swapped out for something that can rev a lil hire and take more punishment...3.8 out of a newer mustang.
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      #17
      Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
      I don't know, that's getting close to as expensive as an MSD box! Seems the main advantage would be not having a bulky external module. Wouldn't the coil have to be wired just like on a points setup, as well?
      Yeah, it'd be wired the same. I had a similar unit on GL to replace the points I had installed in there.
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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        #18
        I'm bringing this back from the DEAD. I happen to do a part # search for 9FO-182 and low and behold GMN popped up...

        As some of you know i've had an ignition problem for YEARS that has plagued my LTD-S. The end result is that it's probably in the wiring somewhere. I had considered replacing the wiring in the entire system...but thats a lot of work and theres a SMALL chance it's not the problem. Anyway im not here to solve that, please no suggestions, i've literally heard and tried everything.

        I ordered that system tonight, the 9FO-182 petronix system. Its so incredibly simple i couldn't believe it.

        The thing I would like to know ahead of time... What wires coming from the ignition switch are "Start Hot" (with the ballast resistor for the coil) and which one is "Run Hot" for the coil, for my 82 LTD, anyone with a wiring diagram? It would be much appreciated!
        -Phil

        sigpic

        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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          #19
          Red/light green is coil power with resistor (engine running).
          Brown/pink is coil power without resistor (engine cranking).

          They both meet at connector 219 on left fender apron, which is gray and has eight terminals, behind the Duraspark box. After the connector, you have just red/light green to the coil.

          I think for the igniter/summit conversion you want the full 12v not the reduced?
          1990 Country Squire - under restoration
          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

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            #20
            I put the Petronix set up on my HEMI Superbird. Best thing I ever did. The car starts better and it actually idles! Dual points suck! WagonMan
            89 Colony Park
            90 Colony Park
            70 HEMI Daytona Convertible

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              #21
              Thanks Tiggie! It was a late night and i mixed up which wire has the resistor strictly by accident. That's enormously helpful, I know exactly what connector that is.

              If i were keeping the stock coil I would need a full 12 volts to the "module" in the dizzy, and the same resistance wire for running, and a 12 volt wire while starting for the coil. I decided just to get a Petronix coil, so it doesn't need the ballast wire and therefore decreased voltage while running. It's happy at a full 12 volts.

              Wagonman, that's good to know! I want something reliable. I'm hoping it will be at least equivalent to the 40+ year old duraspark II system design.
              -Phil

              sigpic

              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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