Valvespring help...

[torquelover]

Need some new valvesprings. Going to install a new cam next week. Here's the non-roller cam specs:

Lift 472/496
Adv. duration 280/290
Duration @.050" 214/224
Lobe sep. 107/117

The springs will go on my E7 heads equipped with 1.6 ratio roller rockers on adjustable studs. I will have my rev limiter set no higher than 5 or 5.5k RPM. Thinking about these:

https://www.fastengineparts.com/prod...ew.php?id=1969

Ideally, I would only want enough spring for my combo in interests of keeping friction/valvetrain wear to a minimum. These seem to be agressive enough, but is it too much? Would the stock retainers/locks be up to the task?

[Mercracer]

Why are you running factory valves? Aftermarket undercut valves and new hardware is called for. You should be able to get valves, springs and hardware for less than $300.

[torquelover]

Not sure of the origin of the valves. They do not appear to be undercut. Do they improve flow/reduce mass enough for me to pull the heads and install them? I got the heads from the machine shop that did the machine work on the block and assembled my rods/pistons. They were fully reconditioned, including a magnaflux, IIRC. The valvesprings in the heads currently were supplied by myself and installed on the heads. They were a tad stronger than what the shop already had installed on the heads. They were matched to my current cam, Edelbrock Performer 351, and are tired now. The new cam is slightly more aggressive.

[Mercracer]

Do your current valves have a single groove?

[P72Ford]

Best of luck with the break in. Read of numerous failures on the aftermarket flat tappet cam break ins. By brother had an isky go bad in his 351 Bronco too.

[DuceAnAHalf]

Best of luck with the break in. Read of numerous failures on the aftermarket flat tappet cam break ins. By brother had an isky go bad in his 351 Bronco too.

I had no problem with mine. I used the Crane cams cam break in lube, ran it for twenty minutes, then changed the oil. no problems and i run it to nearly 6000

[OVERKILL]

If you break them in correctly, following the correct procedure outlined by the manufacturer, it tends to work just fine most of the time.

For springs, I'd recommend the TFS kit available on Summit Racing, it's cheap, and they are good springs.

I run K-Motion K800's in my Capri, but they are WAY overkill for what you are running, not to mention pricey. I have no idea what springs are on my E7's, but they are good enough for the LHO to go to 5K with whatever mystery roller cam is in it (probably an FMS "E") with 1.7's and not float anything..........

[phayzer5]

My Isky #381281 cam hasn't gone bad yet...

[mrltd]

Our 400M cam is fine, that thing gets the shit run out of it, my 289 did fine, I also beat the living shit out of that.

[torquelover]

The first two replacement cams the car had ran in fine. Assembly lube up the wazoo, straight 30W dino oil, and at least 20 minutes at varied rpm with a close eye on the vitals, with a garden hose at the ready, but thankfully . I will check out the TFS units. They always seem to make pretty good products at a good price. I will have to check some old 35mm picks of Build #1 to see if there are any good valve pics. Mercracer, have a pic/link to a valve with a single groove? Thanks for all the help guys. I'm glad I checked this forum out on MrLandYacht's suggestion.