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no start on a 300cid

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    no start on a 300cid

    Hey guys my friend has an 85" F150 and its got a 300 straight 6 with a 3 on the floor. Something keeps draining the battery down. He put in a new battery and alternator but it still got drained. When I tried to jump it the ignition lights came on, then I turned the key to start, and i hear a small pop and then all the electronics went out for the dash. I pulled all the fuses but maybe 1 in the fuse box and they were OK. I think it was the radio's fault because it was straight wired to the fuse box and was staying on all the time. Any ideas/ things to check on an old 300 like this?
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    Check for a drain with the key off. There really isn't anything mroe than that to do. If the radio is on all of the time, it will drain the battery. You can pull the negative cable off of the battery and put your tester between the cable and the battery. With the fuses out, you should have no current flow. Put the fuses back in until you get a draw and note how much of a draw.

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      #3
      If he doesn't work it out he can always buy MY '85 F-150 with a straight six and FOUR on the floor. He'll even be upgrading a gear. I can throw in a five speed transmission and he can upgrade TWO gears if he wants. :heyhey:

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        #4
        Same as anything else with a power drain. Charge the battery, and put an ammeter inline and watch the current draw. Start pulling fuses till you find the circuit causing the drain.

        The pop and loss of all power sounds like a poor connection at the starter relay, a bad ground, or a bad cable.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #5
          Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar View Post
          Something keeps draining the battery down. He put in a new battery and alternator but it still got drained. When I tried to jump it the ignition lights came on, then I turned the key to start, and i hear a small pop and then all the electronics went out for the dash.
          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          The pop and loss of all power sounds like a poor connection at the starter relay, a bad ground, or a bad cable.
          I don't know why I wasn't paying attention the first time. The battery is probably NOT even dead. Probably a bad connection or cable.....

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            #6
            Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar View Post
            I think it was the radio's fault because it was straight wired to the fuse box and was staying on all the time.
            I have the radio in my truck straight wired to the fuse box, as long as I turn it off with the volume control knob it don't drain nothing, sometimes I don't start the truck for weeks and it still gots plenty of juice in the battery - tell yer friend to turn the darn radio off with the knob/button

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