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    fuel pump ain't running.

    I just got my power windows working, but now I think I screwed something up.

    When putting the positive plug onto my battery, I made an idiot mistake and bridged a connection between the plug, the positive post, and my car's fender. It shot sparks of course. I'm sure we've all done that before. Then I was cleaning up a rusty connection with a wire brush attachment for a power drill, and bridged another connection between the positive and something else on the solenoid, not sure what.

    Now, my fuel pump isn't running. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking on when I put the key to RUN, and then I can hear it click off again, as if it's telling the fuel pump to pressurize the lines and then shutting it off. This relay, along with the EEC Power Relay, was replaced a few months ago. This fuel pump is also almost brand new. I replaced it back in March or April. The car has not been driven very much since then... maybe 15 or 20 miles. I had the car running fine a few days ago, but I'm thinking that I must've wrecked something today because now the car cranks but the pump isn't running.

    I've checked all the fuses and to my surprise (and disappointment) none were blown.

    What else should I check? Don't tell me I wrecked my brand new pump.

    #2
    blown fusible link for the fuel pump power supply?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
      blown fusible link for the fuel pump power supply?
      I'm hoping it's something like that... I'll start looking for fusible links along the fuel pump supply. Even if it's something like a blown pump, I don't want to go through the pain in the ass time that replacing that pump was again.
      Last edited by CheeseSteakJim; 07-22-2007, 03:18 PM.

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        #4
        I don't think it's the pump, cause unless engine was running when you shorted stuff out the circuit to the fuel pump ain't closed.

        Comment


          #5
          That's a damn good point.

          I have tested the continuity of the yellow wire that runs from the solenoid to the fuel pump relay, and it's fine. There are also two fuse links (that I could find) in that circuit that don't look burnt or melted in any way. I have also tested the red wire that runs from the relay to the two thermactor air solenoids, and that's also good. For the hell of it, I checked to see if the inertia switch was tripped, and it wasn't. I tripped it and reset it and the fuel pump still ain't running.

          I just went and checked the power going to the fuel pump relay and it's getting between 7.5 and 10.7 volts with the key off. When I turn the key to RUN, the fuel pump relay clicks on and then off just as it should, and the power goes down to zero and then back to up in conjunction with the clicking. Am I supposed to be getting a steady 12 volts at this thing?


          ...should this be in electrical?

          Comment


            #6
            Bump. The only guy who was helping me got banned.

            Comment


              #7
              Yes, full battery voltage. You melted some wiring somewhere. Even if the continuity is good, there might not be enough unburt wire to pass the amperage required.
              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

              Comment


                #8
                You should get zero volts with the key off, and about 12-13 with the key on and engine running or fuel pump relay engaged. You can hot wire the fuel pump relay by grounding one of the pins in the self test connector.



                I'm assuming you are checking for fuel pump voltage at the connector that is in the wiring above the fuel tank, and not at the connection that is visible above the rear axle, correct? The one on the plate above the axle is the sending unit for the fuel gauge. The pump is on the other side, but there is a wiring connector above the tank for the electrical connection to the fuel pump.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                Comment


                  #9
                  Fixed it. Don't ask how. Thanks everybody!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If the fuel pump is doing the key-on line pressurize, then the relay for it should be ok im thinking...

                    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                    '80 Town Coupé
                    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                    '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by CheeseSteakJim View Post
                      Fixed it. Don't ask how. Thanks everybody!
                      How? :p Seriosly, I wanna know what was wrong with it, you oughta tell us.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by phayzer5 View Post
                        If the fuel pump is doing the key-on line pressurize, then the relay for it should be ok im thinking...
                        The problem was that the fuel pump wasn't doing the key-on pressurize...
                        Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
                        How? :p Seriosly, I wanna know what was wrong with it, you oughta tell us.
                        I said don't ask because I don't know. I tried jumping it (using a battery right next to me underneath the car, one wire from positive to LB/BLK, another from negative to BLK) through the connector that's above the tank and it didn't run. Then I dropped the tank and jumped it directly through the connectors on the tank and it did run. Then I reinstalled the tank and tried jumping it through that connector again, and again it ran. After that I put in the battery and tried the bastard, it started, and it's been fine ever since. This car is the motherfucker of the universe to me.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          o, guess I read your post wrong...

                          Important thing is its running again

                          RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                          '80 Town Coupé
                          '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                          '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If moving the tank around like that fixed it, don't be too surprised if the pump is on it's way out. I've heard of people banging on fuel tanks to get the pump to work again when its about to die. Maybe you got lucky and it was just a bad connection and moving the tank wiggled the wiring enough to fix it.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                              Maybe you got lucky and it was just a bad connection and moving the tank wiggled the wiring enough to fix it.
                              If that is what happened tho, one gotta wonder how long will the pump keep running? Some roads are beat to hell, and chances are sooner or later he'll drive along one - Jim, if I were you I'd drop the tank again and make damn sure all wiring is nice and tight, you don't wanna get stranded in the middle of nowhere after midnight and during full moon :p

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