Lock no worky

[Mr. Land Yacht]

this has been like this for a while, but since it's summer now, I can get out and fix it...I just need to know what to fix.

back in Winter, my power lock on my driver door stopped working.
at first, it was just locking slowly...then not at all...so I had to use my key to lock/unlock it....then it hit rock bottom, the key couldn't even turn it to lock.

the power locks for the other 3 doors work just fine...
the lock tab/knob itself on the door armrest is not totally loose or anything, just stuck, wont move at all.

so, any ideas what it is?
Selenoid? worse?

thanks for any input.

-Colin

here's the tab/knob I'm talking about...

[mrltd]

Search!

It's the solenoid.

[Mr. Land Yacht]

mkay...that's what I thought it was..but you know the old saying:
"better safe, then..."



sorry*

ok..I'm confused...which one of these selenoids is the right one?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1199471,parttype,1292

[mrltd]

While your in there, lube up the lock cylinder.... Mine is acting up again, and it's not the solenoid. The solenoids are like 50 bucks, so you can just remove it and save some money and wieght

[roompainter]

50 bucks... ouch!

[85crownHPP]

I got a aftermarket universal Ford one off eBay for $20, so far so good.

[gadget73]

Colin: they're probably all the same, just different brands/models. Its basically the same actuator used on every Ford product for a decade or more. Only difference is the actuator rod. I've also installed the China lock motors, and they work OK. I'm actually expecting one of mine to crap out. 3 originals and one donated from the 88 Mark VII I junked for the engine.

[86GmLsCoupe]

The tab you indicated is I guess what they call a lock indicator tab, thats what I've always called it. I think it's really meant to just show whether the door is locked or not. It will lock and unlock the doors if you push on it hard enough as it's connected to the rod. However, it's only platic and can easily break, especially if the actuator is dying or completely seized. I replaced my actuator with a NOS one last summer and it barely has enough strength to lock/unlock. I think I'm just going to get one of those Ebay ones with the better rubber boot to keep water out. Only big issue I have with the changing the part is the rivets. I had to go to my bro's old job and have them pop one in with the big rivet gun.

[MasterBlaster]

Only big issue I have with the changing the part is the rivets. I had to go to my bro's old job and have them pop one in with the big rivet gun.

You should be able to spread the "ears" on the bracket enough to slip the actuator side-pins out of the rubber pivot grommets, or if you push really hard, you can probably force the grommets out through the "cutout" in the bracket (see the rockauto pics). I just used really short 1/4" bolts & nylocks to install mine.

[88grandmarq]

ok..I'm confused...which one of these selenoids is the right one?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,1292

If you click on the "more info" tab it shows you a picture. the first one (less expensive) is a universal, similar to what Pete is talking about, has different rods for different applications.
Second one is a direct fit, has the correct rod for the application.

the last 2, which are more expensive, are both direct fit and appear to be closer to OEM quality.

btw... the correct term is lock actuator, NOT solenoid.

[1987cp]

I did have at least one solenoid/actuator/whatever on the Mercury freeze up on me one winter, and I couldn't lock or unlock the effected door(s) at all. Mechanically disconnecting the actuator did a great job of crutching the problem, and for now I'm running armrest trim bits from a manual-lock car so you can't even tell there's a problem. If I'd seen this while I was in Indiana, I could have brought up a couple spare actuators for you to try. :p

[Mr. Land Yacht]

thanks for the informaion mangs!

I'll get around to fixing it sooner or later.

[85crownHPP]

I should add... the aftermarket one did NOT fit into the stock bracket, so I had to actually drill out the rivet and swap in the bracket that came with it.

[86VickyLX]

this has been like this for a while, but since it's summer now, I can get out and fix it...I just need to know what to fix.

back in Winter, my power lock on my driver door stopped working.
at first, it was just locking slowly...then not at all...so I had to use my key to lock/unlock it....then it hit rock bottom, the key couldn't even turn it to lock.

the power locks for the other 3 doors work just fine...
the lock tab/knob itself on the door armrest is not totally loose or anything, just stuck, wont move at all.

so, any ideas what it is?
Selenoid? worse?

thanks for any input.

-Colin

here's the tab/knob I'm talking about...

Door Lock Actuator. DORMAN Part # 746147 { Left and Right Side}
Tailgate
FRONT DOORS this one. Held in place with pop rivets same size as window motor assembly bracket ones.

[gadget73]

I used a 1/4-20 bolt and nut. Didn't have any huge rivets or a rivet gun that could use them. Sometimes you can recycle the stock brackets, sometimes not. The plastic brackets seem to break half the time. Metal brackets aren't as common, but my 86 has them.