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    Oil Pan Gasket Removal Question

    I need to replace the oil pan gasket - and the valve covers, but on the oil pan, you know there is a cross member that runs right over the pan and I was wondering if it would be ok to torch the crossmember off then do the pan gasket then weld the cross member back in.

    Seems alot easier than lifting the motor up.

    Penny for your thoughts on this matter.

    #2
    id think that would compromise the frame, if not in strength than in its geometry... along with being alittle over the top lol
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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      #3
      Plus when you weld it back on, it'll warp the crossmember. Just pull the engine lol
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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        #4
        holy crawp that would be extreme for and oil pan gasket. cant you just loosen one mount and lift the motor up alittle

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          #5
          or I would just let it leak rather then "killing" the frame

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            #6
            Yeah you can change the gasket with the engine in the car. Ive seen my dad do it before. But he was a ford mechanic for like 20 years so that may be why. Took him like an hour at the most.
            1989 Grand Marquis LS
            flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

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              #7
              could you ask him how? and specifically how?

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                #8
                are you sure the oil pan gasket is leaking?......could all be from the valve covers and possibly the lower intake, and the distributor o-ring always leaks after 18 yrs lol.......the oil pressure senders are also prone to leaks.....if you have to change the oil pan gasket it can be done with the engine in the car
                heres a quick what to do
                unbolt the fan shroud
                remove the two motor mount bolts
                jack up the engine with an engine hoist till the trans hits the tunnel
                unbolt the oil pan.......theres enough room to get the pan down, but not out of the car......i suggest using a one piece gasket from felpro, napa or ford........might also want to change the oil pump while the pan is down
                scott

                1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                  #9
                  yeah, fix the stuff up top first, it might stop what appears to be the pan. the lower intake usually leaks pretty bad on these things, makes it look like a bad rear main seal most of the time.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                    #10
                    When you replace it use one of the one piece gaskets from FRPP

                    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                    '80 Town Coupé
                    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                    '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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                      #11
                      Scrap the car before cutting the frame.

                      Unbolt the motor mounts, take the upper intake off, jack the motor up as far as it'll go.

                      Pressure wash and degrease the whole thing. Make sure that's the issue first.
                      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                        #12
                        yea i think it would be alot easyer to lift the engine up,,, I would never cut the frame

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                          #13
                          ok ok.. i get it, lol i will not torch the cross member... i really have no idea where the leak is comming from.. there is oil everywhere underneath

                          look at my readers rides battle axe pix - jeez, i could point at the springs and say "there is where its leaking" and you could almost beleive it.

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                            #14
                            do you need to unbolt the trans to trans crossmember mount too??
                            Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                            'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                            sigpic
                            85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 85crownHPP* View Post
                              do you need to unbolt the trans to trans crossmember mount too??
                              No.



                              Clean the car up. Should be easy to trace it down once all the crap is gone.
                              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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