Need A.I.R system removal tips... (sorry for askin guys)

[91LTDProject]

Today I started on the removal of all the useless engine bay clutter. Initially started as just taking the condenser out, and after that came out incredibly easy, I took out the rest of the A/C system (It didnt work and I dont use A/C anyways) Btw all the A/C crap I removed weighed 33lbs. Anyways, next step is the A.I.R system. Looks straight forward enough. Just wanted to verify, do you have to take the upper intake off to acces the back of the heads to remove the bolts from the emission tube. If so, I'm gonna hold off till I find a set of metalcore valve cover gaskets and buy the stuff for the pcv trifecta. That and the size of the bolts I gotta get to plug up the holes in the heads. The numbers would be great so I can just walk in and grab the bolts. Sorry I gotta ask guys. Also I need to know where I can get those valvecover gaskets with the metal inside them, I got some mkVII covers waiting to go on, but I cant stand the cork or pure rubber gaskets. They suck.

[Archangel]

Cork gaskets actually work well with Mark VII valve covers, one of mine is held by only 5 bolts and is still to develop a leak. And yes, removing the upper intake plenum makes reaching the damn bolts a whole lot easier. Bolts you need are 5/8" thread and 1/2" long, 5/8"x1" may work too.

[mrltd]

Fel Pro permadry is the name IIRC, or you can get the ford ones from the dealer.

[pseudoboyfriend]

pcv trifecta? what are these pcv mods you speak of?

[88grandmarq]

you dont have to remove the upper intake, but it sure makes things easier.
as for the air tube on the back of the heads, just cut the ends off, flip them around and bolt them back down with the stock bolt.

you will also need to cut the air tubes at the converters. I usually leave about 2", use some big channel locks and squeeze the tube flat, then weld it shut. the rest of the stuff will come out with little problem
I would leave the tab/tad solenoid electrical connection hooked up, but cap off the vacuum lines.

[Archangel]

I would leave the tab/tad solenoid electrical connection hooked up, but cap off the vacuum lines.

Eh, you really only need three vacuum lines - one from the intake to the EVR, another from the small vacuum canister to the EVR (that one has a check valve too), and the last one from the EVR to the EGR pot on the throttle body. First two lines needs spliced together with a T-ee as the EVR has only one vacuum port on the intake side (you can use one of the stock dual-in-single-out rubber elbows if you pull the old vacuum lines off it), the EGR-side port of the EVR gets directly hooked up to the EGR solenoid, no splicing necessary. Run all new lines, remove everything old as if it hasn't cracked yet it will crack soon. Redo the big vacuum hoses, use new hose everywhere. Nothing hard really, just takes a little longer to figure out where you want what. Have fun!

[91LTDProject]

These vacumn lines you speak of, is it the cluster that is held in by the plate that goes on the top of the plenum? Or is there some lines I have to cap off or re-route when I remove the system. PCV trifecta refers to replacing the pcv screen filter under the pcv valve, the pcv valve itself, and the rubber grommet that holds it in place. No modifications, just replacing it all is much easier with the upper intake off.

[gadget73]

The TAB/TAD lines you need to cap off are the white and the black plastic line that go through the connector hanging in the engine bay to the vacuum motors on the smog pump plumbing. Where you seal them up is up to you, I removed the black and white lines totally, and installed small vacuum plugs on the TAB/TAD initially. Later I re-routed the vacuum plumbing over on that side so that the TAB/TAD didn't even get vacuum. Its the red line that supplies vacuum. Only the top piece, the egr vacuum regulator (also has the green line) needs to keep vacuum. That small plastic "can" thing too.

[91LTDProject]

Thanks gadget. I'm kinda a noob with working with vacum lines and such, but will figure it out. I found out today we carry the perma-dry gaskets, after parts told me we didnt sell them a while ago. Expensive bastards though, $50. But I'll never have to get another set. Btw, could someone tell me what IIRC means.

[pseudoboyfriend]

Both times I've cleaned up my vaccuum lines, I have removed the little plastic can, and just looped the TAB/TAD. Never caused any problems. Should I have left the plastic can? Really, what does it do?

[Archangel]

The plastic can is a vacuum canister, as such it's probably not absolutely necessary needed, but it's a generally good thing to have. IIRC - if I remember correctly.

91LTD, look at my car's SuperMotors.net page, it's got some pictures of the cleaned-up vacuum system there.

[nfldfordltd]

When you got the PCV valve, grommet and screen out, be sure to remove the "steel-wool" type thing from under the whole concern that sits a little deeper in the intake. That damn thing will eventually cause you extra grief in the form of oil leaks due to plugging of the passage below the PCV valve and subsequent increased crankcase pressure due to the poor ventilation.

[Archangel]

that steel wool thingie is actually exactly the screen they're talking about

[interceptor1985]

There is smaller plastic vacuum canister's found in the 89 mustang LX and can be mounted out of sight, That should help gain some vacuum.

[OVERKILL]

The head inserts to block off the smog plumbing crossover is Pioneer part number PF-580-4

I'm looking at a set I have in front of my for the GT40's on my Capri. In a pinch, you can use a spark plug.