So it went slow :(

[OVERKILL]

What are your plans for the Town Car now?

Just daily driver...............

[turbo2256b]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I've been thinking.............

Even though the tranny was slipping at the track, I still think it should have been faster.

The car the MAF came off of actually LOST 40lb-ft of torque (on the dyno) using that MAF, but gained 4HP over the stocker. It was brought in as a replacement because his stocker died. He's a friend of mine, and so I got a good deal on the MAF.

I have a stock Mustang MAF kicking around (off my 'stang) and I've been considering swapping it on instead of the Pro-M and see if the car "feels" faster......... I think it might be worth a shot.....? Opinions?

75 MAF does sounnd dbig for the car with whats done.

[gadget73]

I'd maybe go with a stock Tbird MAF, or the Mustang if you've got one. I think they're like 60 or 65 mm. Overly big MAF will cause inaccurate measurements for the computer because the air velocity will be too low at part throttle.

[OVERKILL]

I was thinking the Mustang MAF because I have it, and because I know it matches the ECM.....

I guess I'll go that route and see what happens


Also, on a related note, is there supposed to be a vacuum check-valve for the HVAC stuff? I know when I put the car under a lot of load (OD up hill, but not accelerating hard enough to down-shift) that the fan will magically go to high (at least that's what it sounds like) but will then go to normal "auto" operation once the load lessens and the engine is making more vacuum..........

[LTDMan83]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I've been thinking.............

Even though the tranny was slipping at the track, I still think it should have been faster.

Ya Think?

I've ran 17.35 in the 1/4 with my stock engine w/HO upper.I would definitely start looking into what is wrong,you should be in the low 16's easily.

[gadget73]

Also, on a related note, is there supposed to be a vacuum check-valve for the HVAC stuff? I know when I put the car under a lot of load (OD up hill, but not accelerating hard enough to down-shift) that the fan will magically go to high (at least that's what it sounds like) but will then go to normal "auto" operation once the load lessens and the engine is making more vacuum..........

Yes. Its on the firewall vacuum tree, has 2 lines going out of it. One vanishes into the firewall, the other goes to the soup can. Inside the dash, the vacuum line splits and comes back out to the thermal blower lockout. Leaks at the soup can or TBL can cause problems. It will force the system to go to full hot defrost, and if you've got the fan set to auto, usually it will go to high speed as well since the blend door will be hard over in the hot position.

[OVERKILL]

Yes. Its on the firewall vacuum tree, has 2 lines going out of it. One vanishes into the firewall, the other goes to the soup can. Inside the dash, the vacuum line splits and comes back out to the thermal blower lockout. Leaks at the soup can or TBL can cause problems. It will force the system to go to full hot defrost, and if you've got the fan set to auto, usually it will go to high speed as well since the blend door will be hard over in the hot position.

Well, when I shut the car off, I can hear the blend door shut a few seconds later........... Which I'm assuming shouldn't be happening if the system is holding vacuum........

[OVERKILL]

Ya Think?

I've ran 17.35 in the 1/4 with my stock engine w/HO upper.I would definitely start looking into what is wrong,you should be in the low 16's easily.

You know the weird part? Sometimes, at like 80K, if I punch it down, it absolutely TEARS off like a raped ape, yet other times, it's kinda "meh", which is apparently the same symptoms my buddy who had this MAF before me was experiencing as well..........

[gadget73]

Well, when I shut the car off, I can hear the blend door shut a few seconds later........... Which I'm assuming shouldn't be happening if the system is holding vacuum........

Should hold for at least a couple minutes or so. I think factory spec for acceptable leakage on the HVAC setup is less than 1 inch a minute.

[OVERKILL]

Should hold for at least a couple minutes or so. I think factory spec for acceptable leakage on the HVAC setup is less than 1 inch a minute.

Well, it's definitely not that long, it's a relatively short time after the car is shut off.

[OVERKILL]

So, I swapped on a stock MAF tonight and got a CEL. MAF must be FUBAR, so I said screw it and put the 75mm back on, which doesn't throw a CEL.

Code was 66, which is MAF voltage low, so I guess it's been sitting too long...........

I DID run it with the stock MAF on it, CEL and all, and it was a turd.

Feels much better with the 75mm on it, but it is still not working as well as when it was first put together and was idling rich as hell and SD. I think the tranny might have something to do with that though, as when you are right into it, if you kinda let off, but stay on the gas, the rev's stay up but the car slows down kinda? Strange feeling...........

[1987cp]

Um... transmission issues causing a rich idle? That'd be a new one!

[OVERKILL]

Um... transmission issues causing a rich idle? That'd be a new one!

The rich idle was fixed when it was converted to MAF, it runs awesome in that regard now.