5.0 Idle issues

[friskyfrankie]

If you think you may have future need for a vacuum pump, I'd get a decent two stage and not fool around with one that requires an air compressor.

You can always check with your local auto parts store and see if they rent decent units (they'll want a deposit) so you don't have to buy one if you can't afford or have a future need for one.

[gadget73]

yeah its not a tool most people need often unless you're doing HVAC work on the regular. I own one because I found it for 20 bucks at the flea market. Its been used maybe a half dozen times in as many years.

[sly]

I've used the air bypass one maybe 6 times... but I had to monitor the supply air and do it in segments, shutting the valve between to let the compressor catch up. I did manage ~23 inHG with that setup. The cheap electric vacuum pump will pull 28 if you just leave it for half an hour or so. I've used that one 3 times now. Much easier to deal with. It's a single stage pump though. But yeah... not many uses for sure.

[monotonorobo]

I bought the Venturi “pump” because I thought it would be sufficient since I’ve seen other people use it for ac systems. I’m just gonna take it back and get a refund for it. I’m also gonna see if I can get this drier warranty replaced since now it’s been exposed to moisture for far too long. And I don’t think I have a leak any where I replaced all lines and fittings. But I’ll go rent a 2 stage vacuum pump from somewhere as I don’t see myself having to use one frequently

[monotonorobo]

+ I know there’s no major leak anywhere because the previous owner fixed the leak that let the r12 escape and the system was pressurized when I got to it. He just didn’t convert properly.

[friskyfrankie]

I would not take the PO's word as gospel. You need to PROPERLY vacuum down the system - AFTER REPLACING ALL THE REQUIRED PARTS, for at least 30-45 minutes and see if it hold vacuum. Some folks try to do these jobs half ass and live to regret it.

[monotonorobo]

I would not take the PO's word as gospel. You need to PROPERLY vacuum down the system - AFTER REPLACING ALL THE REQUIRED PARTS, for at least 30-45 minutes and see if it hold vacuum. Some folks try to do these jobs half ass and live to regret it.

Yeah I wasn’t taking his word for it, owner passed away so I wouldn’t know for certain anyways. It’s just that when I bought the car off of him he had the adapters on and he also had it filled with r134 and it was a half assed job. I think for sure he didn’t vacuum the system down since it blew cold but not cold enough +he had the original motorcraft drier on it and forgot to change the o rings on the compressor. I don’t think he changed the oil from what I saw but I thoroughly when through every part. There was also dye in the system already and I haven’t seen any of it come out before I messed with it. And yeah I was gonna vacuum it down and let it hold for an hour or so and watch what it does.

[monotonorobo]

Another add on; all the previous oil was in the evaporator mainly proving the point that the refrigerant wasn’t moving it too. Ended up lucky the compressor wasn’t fucked though.

[monotonorobo]

You can always check with your local auto parts store and see if they rent decent units (they'll want a deposit) so you don't have to buy one if you can't afford or have a future need for one.

I forgot to mention that my new r134 pressure switch for the drier got crossthreaded when I put it on somehow. The old r12 switch doesn’t have an issue and I remember you told me that you kept the old switch during your conversion. How would I go about adjusting the old switch if I install it on the drier? Or would I need to adjust it at all?

[friskyfrankie]

I forgot to mention that my new r134 pressure switch for the drier got crossthreaded when I put it on somehow. The old r12 switch doesn’t have an issue and I remember you told me that you kept the old switch during your conversion. How would I go about adjusting the old switch if I install it on the drier? Or would I need to adjust it at all?

I'd try and get a OEM R134a switch. Don't remember the part number but that would be your best bet. There is usually a screw inside the switch (look right down the inside of it) so you can make adjustments for the new refrigerant but that is a dicey proposition.

[gadget73]

Unplug the electrical connector
stick a screwdriver in there and back it out about 1/4 turn. it should turn off around 20-25 psi. I think the R12 one shuts off about 25-30. There is nothing magical about the R134a switch, its just set to a slightly lower cut-out pressure.

[friskyfrankie]

I only suggesting trying to get the OEM switch as that would prevent the need to keep messing with the screw hoping to get it correct. If it is not available, then yeah, one could try adjusting the screw until it is correct. All that being said, the part is still available.

[monotonorobo]

I only suggesting trying to get the OEM switch as that would prevent the need to keep messing with the screw hoping to get it correct. If it is not available, then yeah, one could try adjusting the screw until it is correct. All that being said, the part is still available.

Yeah I already ordered one it’ll be here the same day as the drier so I guess I’ll finish this up the day after

[monotonorobo]

I only suggesting trying to get the OEM switch as that would prevent the need to keep messing with the screw hoping to get it correct. If it is not available, then yeah, one could try adjusting the screw until it is correct. All that being said, the part is still available.

I’ve got the system vacuuming down right now but I can’t seem to remember if the o ring for the pressure switch goes inside the switch itself or on the port on the right inside of the drier. I’m pretty sure it came in the switch itself.

[friskyfrankie]

IIRC there is a "stop" inside the switch, itself and that is where the o-ring goes. Usually, it is already there.