5.0 Idle issues

[Arquemann]

7/16 is basically M11. I'd wager someone forced the wrong bolt in there.

M11 doesn't really exist. But from my fumblings a couple days ago I can say that an M10 bolt threads into a chinesium 7/16 hole somewhat well, but a 7/16 bolt doesn't want to thread into an M10 hole.

[monotonorobo]

Pulled compressor, turned the clutch and flipped it multiple times, little to no oil came out. I don’t think it’s fucked up because I didn’t see any metal shavings at all from the whole system. I’ve heard that when the system is undercharged the compressor will dump all the oil into the evaporator, which is where it mostly was. Just want to make sure before I put it all back together.

[sly]

Yeah... oil will get pushed through the compressor and does circulate through the system, so if there's no/low refrigerant, it makes sense that the compressor would push the oil out without receiving more from the low side. I would expect it to stop in the condenser though since that's the lowest point in the system. But pushing through that and stopping in the evap might make sense with lack of gas.

[monotonorobo]

Yeah... oil will get pushed through the compressor and does circulate through the system, so if there's no/low refrigerant, it makes sense that the compressor would push the oil out without receiving more from the low side. I would expect it to stop in the condenser though since that's the lowest point in the system. But pushing through that and stopping in the evap might make sense with lack of gas.

just making sure. It made sense to me because I also had the same thought process. There was a good bit in the condenser too but soon as I put a little bit of flush in the evaporator it sprayed out.

[monotonorobo]

Spent all day putting the stuff I took apart back together and when I tried to take out the schrader valve for the high side it didn’t want to come out. It spins freely left or right and it won’t tighten or loosen. I tried to take it out w some tweezers but to no avail.

[friskyfrankie]

I assume you have the valve removal tool. You may be able to slightly rock it from side to side (won't be much movement but perhaps enough to free it) and then remove it (with a needle nose plies if required) but do be careful to not break the valve off in the core. Having some pressure in the system may help push it out. Is your system completely empty? If so, you may be able to put a little refrigerant in to provide some pressure.

[monotonorobo]

I assume you have the valve removal tool. You may be able to slightly rock it from side to side (won't be much movement but perhaps enough to free it) and then remove it (with a needle nose plies if required) but do be careful to not break the valve off in the core. Having some pressure in the system may help push it out. Is your system completely empty? If so, you may be able to put a little refrigerant in to provide some pressure.

Yeah I tried to blow some air from my air compressor into the line but it didn’t come out. I’ll try the refrigerant and yes the system is empty I didn’t even put the drier in yet

[friskyfrankie]

Tweezers may not be strong enough to pull it. A small needle nose pliers would be more effective. If you have the tool, you may try pushing the valve in while trying to back it out. You'll have to replace it anyway so no fear of damaging it as long as it doesn't break off in the valve.

[monotonorobo]

Tweezers may not be strong enough to pull it. A small needle nose pliers would be more effective. If you have the tool, you may try pushing the valve in while trying to back it out. You'll have to replace it anyway so no fear of damaging it as long as it doesn't break off in the valve.

Alright I’m free again this weekend. I had to go buy some pliers and none of them were small enough to get inside of the hole. Any other suggestions?

[friskyfrankie]

Other than finding something small enough to get into the hole and strong enough to pull it out? No! Other than replacing the line with the high side valve if you REALLY can't remove the valve.....

[sly]

FYI: Some valves are integral to the line and not a screw out valve. Some even have a spinning bit that just helps support the valve pin. You might be dealing with one of those. In that case, yeah... replace the entire line.

[gadget73]

My S10 had those, but I've never seen it on R12 style fittings. I suppose there is a first time for everything.

I'm assuming you're trying to remove the R12 fitting valve core. If you're messing with the R134a conversion fitting, thats probably not going to come out. R12 fittings are threaded, 134a are a quick connect type.

[monotonorobo]

I see.. I guess I will replace said line.

[monotonorobo]

Still waiting on the new line and I will begin my next project in a couple months. I plan to repaint the car and replace the vinyl roof. Only known issues is this rust spot and a small ding on the passenger door. I will learn as much as I can about cutting and filling rust spots like these. I asked a friend who does body work and he says just from looks it’s probably deeper than it appears and the thickness is probably 18-20GA .

[monotonorobo]

One last thing since the line finally came in, the o rings in the adapters I have crumple up and come apart. Would it still be fine if I installed them without it? I’m guessing so because these adapters don’t come with the valve core in it.