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    #1

    5.0 Idle issues

    I had made a thread before but I’ll just say that it’s irrelevant right now as I now have more knowledge than I did before.

    to start off with the in the beginning since I changed the TFI months ago the engine would not start anymore. I changed a lot of parts checked a lot of things with this car. When I finally got it running I noticed a vacuum leak and checked all the lines and the EGR line was cracked and plus my old EGR was sticky too so I replaced them both. After I replaced them both vacuum leak seemed to be no more, and it would run very smooth for about 2 mins before sputtering out and dying. I thought it was possibly the timing so I checked the timing and it was at 12 deg (in the past I took out the distributor before and set the timing but it still wouldn’t run so I couldn’t test with a timing light) I set it back to 10 deg and it ran normally for a bit before sputtering out again. Adjusted it a bit more, plugged in spout then it ran horribly for about 7 secs before shutting off. I took out the spout and it stayed on but sputtered about every 10 secs but it would never turn off on me.

    i don’t know where I could’ve went wrong or messed up something but help would be appreciated. It is also a non H.O. engine.

    Edit: and I don’t know if I mentioned it but I can’t pull for codes, computer just won’t talk anymore.
    Last edited by monotonorobo; 03-16-2024, 07:14 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Sounds like TFI overheat issues. Did you put the thermal grease on? Also, some some new parts just don't work. Could be the ECM... they are rather old now and the caps are known for leaking out and eating the PCB.

    Heard a good one recently ... new parts are just that... they have Never Ever Worked. So until you know for sure it's working, consider it a bad part.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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      #3
      Was the TFI OEM? At least in my experience, I have found most aftermarket ones to be crap. They either don't work, from the beginning, or simply don't last very long and it is not something I wish to repeat on a regular basis. The grease part, as stated above, is VERY important!!
      What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
      What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo
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        #4
        Originally posted by friskyfrankie View Post
        Was the TFI OEM? At least in my experience, I have found most aftermarket ones to be crap. They either don't work, from the beginning, or simply don't last very long and it is not something I wish to repeat on a regular basis. The grease part, as stated above, is VERY important!!
        Just thought about it… I got dielectric grease not thermal grease… how do I check if it’s fucked to the point if I need a new one? I know how to check for the signals on the pins but would I still do the same process as if I were checking for PIP or anything like that? Sorry if I worded this weirdly.

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          #5
          take it off... clean the surfaces... put thermal grease... put it back... If it doesn't work for more than 20 minutes... it may be buggered, but if it lasts longer than that, it should be at operating temp and be fine. But be prepared to get another one.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
          • Likes 1

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            #6
            Got it

            Comment

              #7
              When it sputters but stays running with the SPOUT out, pull a plug wire to see if it's the spark causing the sputter.
              1990 Country Squire - under restoration
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers
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                #8
                Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
                When it sputters but stays running with the SPOUT out, pull a plug wire to see if it's the spark causing the sputter.
                This is what I’m going for next, I already applied the thermal paste and it ran better but still about the same. There was a grinding noise when I first started it but it went away and I couldn’t catch it again.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by sly View Post
                  take it off... clean the surfaces... put thermal grease... put it back... If it doesn't work for more than 20 minutes... it may be buggered, but if it lasts longer than that, it should be at operating temp and be fine. But be prepared to get another one.
                  Since I had some money to mess with I just bought a new motorcraft TFI and put thermal paste on it. I plugged it in with spout disconnect and it ran perfectly for maybe like 10 mins till I shut it off. I plugged in spout and it went to shit again. Decided to check timing again with spout out but now it didn’t want to run long again without sputtering. I’m thinking maybe distributor issues? I can’t say PIP cause it runs bad without computer input. I’ll check all plugs tomorrow too.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    are you sure the timing is correct? Meaning 10 BTDC, and the balancer hasn't spun? There are marks from about 30 BTDC to 10 ATDC on these. Quick and dirty check for balancer accuracy, pull the #1 spark plug and stick a screwdriver in the hole. By hand, rotate the engine until the screwdriver is at the top of it's travel. See where the marks are on the balancer. If its somewhere betwee 5 BTDC and 5 ATDC, you're good. There is a period of rotation where the piston is as far up as it goes and its a little hard to be more precise than a few degrees either way without using a piston hard stop and checking where it hits from both directions. With the piston stop, if it stops at say 10 ATDC and 10 BTDC, true top dead center is exactly between those points.


                    a bad pickup in the distributor will make it run stupid too, and can act quite a lot like TFI problems. The proper way to change those is annoying, you have to remove the gear from the distributor and pull the shaft out. Its a press fit, and putting it back together you have to press the gear on while lining up the hole.

                    or just replace the distributor. They come with a pickup installed.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Yeah I already found my TDC before but I can always check again. I’ve marked TDC and 10 degrees BTDC. And yeah I was planning on replacing the whole distributor if it was the problem, since i don’t have a press.

                      forgot to mention that I do hear a grinding noise from the engine every now and then and I have suspicion that it could be the shaft is out of whack or maybe it’s teeth have dulled down.
                      Last edited by monotonorobo; 03-17-2024, 08:11 PM.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by monotonorobo View Post
                        I but I can’t pull for codes, computer just won’t talk anymore.
                        I think if you cant pull codes the ECU is fried.
                        1987 CV LX 5.0

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                          #13
                          check these things first

                          http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page44.html
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by mcb82gt View Post

                            I think if you cant pull codes the ECU is fried.
                            Nah it’s something else, I got two ECM’s and both of them used to throw codes at me but not anymore. I’ll go through what gadget had sent.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Could someone tell me what this is called and could it be the issue? I know it’s vacuum related I don’t know what it is.
                              Attached Files

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