Hey guys. I'm hoping to get some advice on my '87 GM starting issue. So right now I have interior lights on but get nothing from starting the car. After trying to start the car, it doesn't try to turn over and the lights go dead. It takes removing and putting the battery cable back on to get the lights to come back on. I've tried the tap the starter trick to no avail and the battery is fully charged. Do you guys agree it's time for a starter replacement? Any tips on replacing the starter? Thanks everyone
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Weak battery causes that self-protect relay trip you're dealing with having to disconnect the battery to reset it. I've never found that mechanism on my cars though. It's not related to the starter though the starter may be showing its age. Definitely test the battery first and make sure the cables have good connections to the battery and the starter and engine block.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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sly I think you're right. I tried to start it with my battery pack jumper majiggy, and it started up fine. Strange thing is before that I took it to Auto zone. They tested it and it showed the battery as good. Thankfully the battery is still under warranty. I'm going to get a replacement next week.
On another note, I tend to pull the negative cable off at night due to a slow electrical drain that I have yet to find. Does leaving the positive cable on without the negative for an extended period of time have an effect on the battery?@Ryan.Madison68
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No03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
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more likely a crappy battery cable or crusty connection. These aren't smart enough to have any sort of low battery protect relay or anything of that nature.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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What's the cutoff relay that sounds like a mechanical timer then? After about 30 seconds it would stop and lights would come back on. (I might be remembering a GM vehicle now that I think about it)
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
- Likes 1
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I had a starting issue like that, it would only fire if I put the jump box on and the battery was fully charged. It turned out to be my crappy positive battery cable. I replaced that and cleaned up the posts and negative terminal and tightened everything and no issues since.1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
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Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar View PostI had a starting issue like that, it would only fire if I put the jump box on and the battery was fully charged. It turned out to be my crappy positive battery cable. I replaced that and cleaned up the posts and negative terminal and tightened everything and no issues since.What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo
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Originally posted by sly View PostWhat's the cutoff relay that sounds like a mechanical timer then? After about 30 seconds it would stop and lights would come back on. (I might be remembering a GM vehicle now that I think about it)86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Must be a GM thing then.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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at least 6 gauge. 4 would be better. Some folks even go with 0. Don't really need more than 2 gauge I don't think unless you're running some obnoxious audio system.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
Comment
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Update: So it's back up and running. Here's what I've replaced. Battery, positive battery cable and starter solenoid. My thought is that it was a faulty starter solenoid. It's been the 3rd or 4th possibly 5th one I've replaced since owning the car. Is that typical for other panther owners?@Ryan.Madison68
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Yes, unfortunately. Not sure about the standards these days, but with every single panther or late 80's to mid 90's Ford truck I owned, that was the first thing I swapped out for Motorcraft. Although that's probably not what it once was. I was used to the things welding themselves closed circuit and the starter just spinning away as a result.1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge
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no that isn' normal. If you're eating starter relays, you probably have a dying starter.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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