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    Timing Not Advancing

    I’ve noticed on my new 90 Marquis that it’s a dog below like 2500 rpm’s. I pulled the spout connector and it acted the same so I put my multimeter inline with the spout wiring and it shows 0 volts. Anywhere to check? I’ve read a few threads on fox forums and it seems the issue for them is usually a faulty ecu.

    #2
    I'd check continuity first.
    The spout connector is just a jumper and not likely to be the culprit but check it for continuity anyway.
    Check from the spout connector to the TFI connector.
    Check from the spout connector to ECU connector pin 36.
    If everything is continuous, the issue could be a faulty ECU.
    I suppose it could also be a bad TFI module or PIP sensor, but it seems like it wouldn't run at all if that was the case but I could be wrong.

    EEC IV pinout:
    Fuel Injection Technical Library » EEC Computers (grandmarq.net)
    Vic

    ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
    ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
    ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

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      #3
      On my TFI the timing was advancing way too much and not at all sometimes, but it did run. I replaced the pip and tfi module, i dont know which one fixed it.
      1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
      2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel

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        #4
        its usually something on the distributor, not the ECM when this happens. I'd expect some weird codes too if it were the ECM.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #5
          I finally had the chance to test out the wiring. There is continuity and this time when I checked it there was about 6.5v across the spout jumper so the ICM is getting signal. But it is still sluggish so I’ll try dumping codes and borrow a timing light to see where my timing is.

          Comment


            #6
            Yeah, check base timing. Simple things first.
            1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
            1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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              #7
              Alright I was finally able to make time for this. With spout disconnected, it sits at about 8* btdc. With spout connected, it does adjust timing. I ran codes and only got 12, 21 and 74, KOER. It wasn’t fully warmed up and I didn’t press the brake pedal so the 21 and 74 are false codes. I’m thinking my iac needs to be replaced. I do have a hunting idle sometimes and it stalls when I put it in drive or reverse sometimes. I’m going to replace it as cheap insurance.

              Also, I’ve noticed that when I got the gas there is a little bit of a hesitation. When it shifts it bogs for a second then keeps accelerating. And it has no low end torque. The hesitation I feel isn’t like a misfire, maybe just bogs down. Any ideas?

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                #8
                Check the fuel pressure and regulator. Should be around 32 PSI at idle and 40 PSI engine off (no vacuum/wide open). If it's below 28psi at idle, change the fuel filter first if that hasn't been done. If that doesn't help, you may need a new FPR. If you pull the vacuum hose off the FPR and it's wet (fuel is leaking through) then replace the FPR, it's toast.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                  #9
                  I’ll check it out. The guy I bought it from said he replaced the pump and fuel filter but who knows. The fuel gauge doesn’t work so maybe it has an issue with the pump or wiring.

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                    #10
                    I tested the fuel pressure. It’s about 34 psi at idle, and about 40 psi with the vacuum line disconnected. When I put it in gear and messed with it to get it to idle low or almost die and it never got below 34 psi. That rules out a fuel issue. I’m pretty sure a few of the small plastic vacuum lines are cracked so I’ll start replacing them. Anywhere else I should check?

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                      #11
                      fuel air spark. Fuel is good... so air... vacuum lines (check them all)... and you probably should check spark wires at night to see if they're leaking (making sparkles in the dark) and cap/rotor for wear and spark plugs.

                      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                      Originally posted by dmccaig
                      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I did a smoke test not too long ago and I couldn’t find any leaks but I know some of those tiny lines have cracks in them. I checked for spark leaking and didn’t find any. I’m replacing the wires and iac anyway and will check the cap and rotor when I can. I pulled plug on cylinder 7 last night because it wasn’t a bear to get to and it was good. Clean and the gap was about right.

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                          #13
                          I just went out and pulled the cap off the distributor. The rotor has a little bit of burning and so do the contacts on the cap. I think I’ll replace at least the cap just because. The rotor I’ll clean up.

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                            #14
                            cap honestly looks OK. I'd give that a scrape and stick it back on.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I cleaned up the cap and rotor and reset the base idle. It was set way too low it wouldn’t even run with the iac unplugged. No more stalling and it doesn’t want to stall after revving. It still has no power in the low rpm’s. From a standstill it has no power until like 2500 rpm’s and then it’s like it has a turbo lol. And when it shifts gears you can feel it bog for a couple seconds before it begins accelerating again.

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